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The first thing id do is check the plugs and wires , then the air filter ,pcv valve , plus remove the ignition module and check its housing for cracks or bulges or discolouring all are signs of a bad module.I'd also run some STP or Lucas fuel treatment through it and then see how it runs...

Well on many vehicles the fuse might not be running just one device and due to it being the 12 volt constant ignition switch feed may not even list the constant 12 volt radio feed fuse. Basically you've two feeds one being a switchable 12 volt feed that usually has a fuse that is listed as a...

See if it was an older model mid 90s etc I'd say it could be solenoid pack related but that year of vehicle has a much more detailed trouble code system and would indicate such a problem via a code or codes being recorded and stored. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way be sure you go...

The EATX is the relay that controls the transmission solenoid pack inside the transmission , it's located I believe inside the fuse box under the hood, also you should be able to find another relay that is non vital that has the exact same part number so you can switch them around as a test...

Sounds like the wheel bearing but take a good look at the brakes too. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way double check the drive axle too.

Sounds like the wheel bearing but take a good look at the brakes too. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way double check the drive axle too.

You've two different problems here one being the pump or pump seal or gasket needs replacing and the other is due to the transmission control system having problems. A code should be coming up due to the transmission going to into the limp mode there are a few different reasons for the limp...

I'd check the fan relays first then the temperature sensor and then the wiring going to and from the fan to the relay and to the main comp too especially the grounds. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way one way to try the relays is try switching a relay that's a non vital relay that...

Well to me the driver always know their vehicle best especially if they've always monitored the dash and its gauges.More then likely the system could have low coolant levels or a leak or the fan isn't engaging or it isn't engaging at the correct temperatures or the anti-freeze is slightly worn...

I'd check the plugs and wires , the air filter , change the fuel filter on it , also check the gas pressure and run some gas treatment like Lucas or STP through it.Then once you use a few tanks of fuel up change the fuel filter again and I'd clean the throttle body too. Hope that helps and...

Well luckily you can't over fill those very much , what I'd do is try forcing the extra fluid out , try using your fingers to do this or get a anti-freeze tester or some kind of device and use it to suck the extra out. Hope that helps and best of luck.

You might be able to buy a used one from an auto wreckers that could then be welded etc to your vehicle via a frame or welding shop or garage.I'd call around some places also sell brand new ones for about 75 to150 bucks or so.The labour shouldn't be much more then about an hr or so or less and...

The extra wires could be for a electric antenna , also it could be an aux 12 volt output source. What I'd try is switching the wires around connect the stereos rear output wires to the front speakers and see if they work then and if they don't work it could be that the front speakers are blown...

I'd take the Vin number or door panel factory colour code vin number and call up a automotive paint supplier first thing monday morning they'll tell you the exact colour. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way you could give the Vin number etc to your friend and he could check with a...

I'd check the ground wires going to the headlight bulbs if the bulb is a 3 pin setup the centre pin is usually the ground.On a vehicle that old I'd highly suspect the ground connections or wiring that is internally corroded or a faulty headlight switch. To me a cheap fix would be going to a U...

Here's what you could do take the battery out and make sure you put it on a charger tester and it's 100% good and fully charged , try the battery in the car and still if it wont start try a boost.If that still ends up with just a clicking sound , remove the starter and either get it tested for...

Here's what you could do take the battery out and make sure you put it on a charger tester and it's 100% good and fully charged , try the battery in the car and still if it wont start try a boost.If that still ends up with just a clicking sound , remove the starter and either get it tested for...

That be the rear sensor on the same side as cylinder no1.Not sure of that vehicle and how many o2 sensors it has but if its the sensor after the cat converter giving you that code the cat converter itself is probably at fault and I might get a used one or aftermarket cat converter and replace...

Lucas fuel treatment has an excellent rep my friends that run parts stores etc swear by it and so do many ppl I know that use it too. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I use it too and once you use it don't panic if any engine codes appear bec it can cause o2 sensor codes to appear...

Check the plug in connector's connections it could be rusted or corroded or loose or the wiring could have problems but the sensor should be on the coolant over flow container. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way you might need to remove or loose off the over flow container to gain...