Recent content by Davd

Many shops charge 1 hour just to look at the car for diagnosis. Then if the serp belt goes around the engine mount, That could cost another hour, and then if the belt is expensive and a tensioner, you may not have gotten as ripped as it seems, but it does sound high.

Many shops charge 1 hour just to look at the car for diagnosis. Then if the serp belt goes around the engine mount, That could cost another hour, and then if the belt is expensive and a tensioner, you may not have gotten as ripped as it seems, but it does sound high.

When you go to start, does it click? If so, It may need starter contacts.

With all crank/no start concerns, I start checking for spark. If I have spark, I go to fuel. If there is no spark, troubleshoot the ignition system. Check for power at the coil and see if it is pulsed when turning the engine over. If there is power, but it is not pulled low on the low side...

The crankshaft sensor will not set a code but cause this symptom.

I don't know of any online guides. Are you talking about in a 7.3L diesel? If so, it is pretty easy just be positive the cylinders are free of any liquid before turning over the engine. And obviously, use new o-rings lubricated liberally with oil.

If the car runs fine off-idle and just has problems idling, a vacuum leak, possibly at the intake manifold gasket, could be the cause. Don't discount the possibility of a head gasket just because you don't see anything out of the exhaust though. You could also try cleaning your throttle body...

If the car runs fine off-idle and just has problems idling, a vacuum leak, possibly at the intake manifold gasket, could be the cause. Don't discount the possibility of a head gasket just because you don't see anything out of the exhaust though. You could also try cleaning your throttle body...

It is very possible your car has a parasitic drain. Every car has some drain with engine off and .050 amps or less is acceptable. To find out if your car does, disconnect the negative cable and put a jumper wire between it and the negative terminal. Then wait 1 hr for the modules to time out...

I believe the engines will bolt in at the same locations, but the wiring harness will be different and the pcm will have to be changed also. I recently put a 99 SOHC into a 2001 SOHC, and had problems enough with knock sensors and other small things, so be ready for a big headache.

I believe the engines will bolt in at the same locations, but the wiring harness will be different and the pcm will have to be changed also. I recently put a 99 SOHC into a 2001 SOHC, and had problems enough with knock sensors and other small things, so be ready for a big headache.

Typically the wrong battery will not cause any problems. Smaller batteries can have the same voltage and amperage. When they replaced the battery did the vehicle start? Did you ask if the battery is for this vehicle? The smell and smoke from the vents sounds like a blower motor failing.

Typically the wrong battery will not cause any problems. Smaller batteries can have the same voltage and amperage. When they replaced the battery did the vehicle start? Did you ask if the battery is for this vehicle? The smell and smoke from the vents sounds like a blower motor failing.

It is very possible your car has a parasitic drain. Every car has some drain with engine off and .050 amps or less is acceptable. To find out if your car does, disconnect the negative cable and put a jumper wire between it and the negative terminal. Then wait 1 hr for the modules to time out...

What is happening is the security code from the ignition switch is not what the pcm expected, so it puts the car into security lock-out. Several things can cause this, but replacing the ignition switch and relearning the security code is the probable fix. It's a headache, so I would take it to...