Search results

Feel both lines going to the heater core under the hood. If they're both hot the core is ok. If only one is hot or both are cold try disconnecting them and blowing the core out with a garden hose. You don't want to know what it takes to replace that core.

I bet someone used the wrong bulb in the brake lights or the socket is messed up. When you apply the brakes, the voltage is getting fed back to the tail light wire, which is the same circuit that lights the dash.

"more thump noise at idle when in gear. regular thump with revolution of motor not drive train" Do you even read what you write?

An antique compass and 18th century map.

Soaking the tips isn't going to help. They need to be held open and injected with cleaner to be done right. If you get them out yourself, a good tuneup shop will have the setup to clean them. If you want to try anyhow, Techron is the best stuff you can use.

It's in the distributor if you're talking about a 98 or older. They run $70 or $80.

That code usually means a bad DPFE sensor. If that's the one you had replaced, it may have been done incorrectly. It's nothing to do with the cat.

The alternator doesn't do much when the bike is idling so your voltage drops. A flasher on it's last legs might quit at 12 volts but work OK at 14 volts. I've never seen a bad engine to chassis ground problem on a bike, but yours does have rubber engine mounts, so it might be possible.

You start by fixing what you know is wrong. Open the hood and find out where the squeaking is coming from. If something siezed up and is keeping the belt from turning you're going to overheat the engine.

Check your tailights when you turn the headlights on. A bad ground to the rear light sockets can cause such symptoms.

Believe it or not, the standard tire for a Wrangler is a Wrangler. Too bad about your budget though. Wranglers really aren't very good tires. Something like a Fortera Triple tread would make the Jeep handle all types of roads much better.

That's called an automatic transmission. The torque converter locks and unlocks and it goes in and out of overdrive as the load varies. It's what it's suppose to do. Explorers tend to do that a lot. It's just the way the controller works.

It's not a virus. That generally means the motherboard has passed on.

It means you have a rotten connection between the starter button and the solenoid.

It means you have a rotten connection between the starter button and the solenoid.

It means you have a rotten connection between the starter button and the solenoid.

There were differences in the Pontiac version, but GM did put Chevys in there on occasion.

Plug the vacuum hose that fell off back on.

You already figured it out. It's a vacuum leak. The vacuum goes down when you hit the accelerator, so there's not enough left to work the vent controls. They always default to defrost when they quit because that's the one thing you can't live without some days. It's a very common problem. If you...

There's nothing wrong. The engine has a 195 thermostat and 210 is the average running temp. It wouldn't do any real harm if you wanted to put a 180 thermostat in there. It just makes fuel injected cars a tiny bit less efficient.