Re-Installing motorcycle clutch plates on 83' kawasaki zx1100. Need to know

guardrailjim

New member
Alternate metal and friction plates.
Never allow anything metal to touch another metal component of the clutch.
That includes the steel plates together and against the clutch basket & cover.

Yes, tighten the bolts all the way.
The bolts are going into soft aluminum - so do not over tighten them.
The springs will act like lock washers - so do not use lock-tite on the bolts.
 
the order of the plates/spacers.? I took out the plates thinking the clutch was messed up but that doesn't seem to be the problem (Problem was with the engagement part of the cable). It worked fine before with no slipping so I know it's OK. Now since I confused the plates, I don't know which goes first or last, or if/where there are 2 friction plates in a row with no metal spacer ring between them. There are 5 (Five) black friction plates that are stamped T5, 4 (Four) black ones that are stamped T6, and 8 metal spacer rings. The friction plates have diagonal grooves on both sides. The metal spacers are identical, or appear to be.

Say I'm looking into the case with all the plates out. The piece is metal, one whole big piece that holds all the plates. What do I put in first? A metal spacer, then a friction plate? A friction plate then a spacer? A friction plate then another plate THEN a spacer? Basically IIRC the friction plates all have metal spacers between them except for one spot, where there should be 2 friction plates together (I think?). The bike is a 1983 kawasaki zx1100 GPz A1, 5 speed... I'm assuming there's some similarity with other bikes though.

I just need to know what to put in first, where to double up the friction plates, what to put in last (before the cover and springs). I tried a configuration or two but it slips a LOT even with the springs tightened all the way so I know it's not correct. Do the grooves in the friction plates have to be facing the same way or opposite (put in one way or flipped around)?

Also, should I have to tighten the springs all the way in the end?? They're a bit old but as I said they weren't slipping before I took them apart. Any advice about the engagement shaft/ball bearing is welcome too, but not necessary as I believe it's fine. I can run, shift, drive but I just don't know what order the plates should go to have the clutch hold when not engaged.

THANKS A LOT! I'm young and new at this, and was sold a lemon by a very unsavory guy, who scammed the paperwork to the point where although I got it registered, I have no paper with his name on it or any connection to him other than knowing his name so there's no hope for lemon laws. I'm willing to work but I'm frustrated, bleeding and I don't have the $$$$$ to just leave it in the shop, and it's my only vehicle too.... the manual is coming in the mail but not for another 2 weeks!!!

Thanks again!!! Even if you don't know the bike specifically, are there some general rules to 5 speed clutch plate order?? Any input is welcome!
Ok... so I also called around and asked some shops right before I got these answers from you guys. They gave me pretty much the same ones. Re-installed the plates, starting with friction then metal then friction etc. up until the last friction Total of 9 fric plates and 8 metal plates. Tightened the clutch springs solidly all the way but didn't torque them too hard. Put the whole cover back on, unfortunately the gasket is old and one of the old bolts cracked.

I carried on with the test. Adjusted my tension a little on the other side nut to get my clutch lever feeling ok. Started, shifted and let the clutch out, felt a bit loose but worked fine. SLOWLY pulled off in 1st, 2nd, 3rd..... gave it some gas and whhhhhhrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! clutch started smoking itself. So now I can get it to work, but pretty much any throttle application over 2500-3kRPM will immediately break the clutch loose. I tried to give the clutch disengagement nut some more play but then It jumps into gear and stalls.

So
Yahoo Glitch>? So anyway... I then tried different arrangements of plates, T5 ones first, T6 ones first, T5 alternating with T6 ones, alternating/reversing the order of the grooves in the plates.... same differences mostly, works but smokes the clutch under any real power.

I'm going to permanently engage the clutch by disconnecting the the disengage/cable attachment and push it into first gear, then power it through a gear or two and see if the clutch itself slips with no linkage. If it doesn't, which it didn't before, then I'm going to have to figure out which lousy part of the linkage is causing her to not hold the clutch fully engaged. What a technical crap-shoot... my tech manual is coming in 11-14 days and as I said, she's my only vehicle!

The only thing that was done differently prior to the issue was that I rode a 120lb kid on the back for 10-12 miles. I didn't thrash it or even put it through band, probably 7krpm at most and some engine braking. I'm afraid something old went
 
They go friction -steel -friction -steel- friction-steel and so on until all the plates are put in.Springs get tightened all the way with about 14 ft lbs of torque,not much just a little past snug.The first friction plate in, rests against the inside pressure plate and the last plate in rest against the outside pressure plate.When assembled correctly the clutch is constantly engaged until you use the release mechanism(clutch lever) to relieve it of the spring pressure.If you want to see an entire schematic of your clutch-go to bikebandit.com-under oem stuff look up your bike and you can see how the whole pak is assembled. Need help ? just holler.....@Ok-you have a engage-dis engage problem.There are basically 3 components to this-clutch pack-the internal rod adjustment and the clutch lever itself. If you assembled the clutch like we stated then that part is correct..Now you go to the lever and loosen the lock nut and screw the adjuster towards the grip so that it is really loose.Now go down to the case cover where the cable goes in-break loose the lock nut on the rod adjuster and turn the slot screw out until you feel no resistance.Now turn it back in with light pressure from 2 fingers until you feel it stop-then back it out 3/4 -1 full turn-then hold the slot and lock the nut.Go back up to the clutch lever and adjust until there is about 1/8 of an inch free play between the lever and bracket.You are now adjusted properly-if you take off and the motor still revs then your clutch plates are shot.Sometimes plates appear worn but the problem may actually be that the springs have lost thier tension from repeated-- open/closing of the clutch.You failed to mention what color the steel plates are-are you using synthetic oil-can you depress the springs with your thumb and finger?Clutch plates may look good because they still have some friction material left on them-the only way you could tell would be to "mic" them and check against OEM specs.The other thing is-disconnect the clutch cable at both ends and see if you can slide it back and forth inside with relative ease-lube it up,it should move with no effort at all.
 
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