Much Help Needed - car audio set-up?

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imhungry

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Hi all,
I have a Pioneer Premier 12" TS-W3001D4 sub and My final intention is to lean towards having a clear, yet still powerful SQ type set-up.
* Peak: 3000 watts
* RMS: 1000 watts
# Impedance: Dual 4 ohms

Everything else is factory/stock

*I have a wooden home-made dual sealed box that I might cut down to a single, but may end up looking into a custom-made sealed box in the future. What are the Pros/Cons of Wood vs. fiberglass/MDF/other materials please. & would a flared port make much diff. in sound quality or output?

*Also looking for the right amp to power the sub (mono block probably). What would match up well with my sub?

*Where would a sound dampener be desired besides doors and maybe trunk. (basically speaking; I don't necessarily want to go through the trouble of ripping out all the interior to slap it around the whole car)

*recommendations for great mids and tweeters are welcome as well
*Heard something about running them in mono vs stereo. Should I even bother worrying about that?
*Lastly if anyone has any recommendations for a capacitor that would be great. I've killed two batteries from just the knocking the stock system too much. Hi-Fi w/o its own power source would be suicide.

*forgot to add that I have an '05 Honda Accord EX coupe.

Thx in advance to all who answer
 
The guy above me is right with everything so I'll just give you advice on the amp. I also own a ts-w3002d2 (newer version with dual 2 ohms). I have a kenwood kac-9401d monoblock amp. It is perfect for the sub. The specs:

1800 watts peak
900 watts rms at 1 ohm
900 watts rms at 2 ohms
500 watts rms at 4 ohms

You should be able to wire the coils in parallel to get 2 ohms final impedence. Kenwoods are cea-2006 compliant so they will put out 900 rms. This is perfect for a sub that is 1000 rms. you can get one on ebay for about $170 including shipping. Have fun and hope this helps.
 
OK---lets go down the line here

MDF is medium density fiberboard. Its the typical wood used in a sub box. Fiberglass is strong, but thats more for super-custom jobs where odd shapes are needed. A port will increase the output of the sub. Contrary to all the myths perpetuated here, a ported box can have EXCELLENT sound quality if built and tuned correctly. You have a powerful sub, Try to use 1 inch MDF if possible. Try to stay away from OSB (oriented strand board) or plywood if possible.

As for the amp, a monoblock is fine! Look for an amp that makes around 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms mono, give or take a few hundred. You want an amp that makes max power at 2 ohms, to match your dual 4 ohm sub (which will be wired in parallel to present a 2 ohm load to the amp). Forget flea market brands and "peak" and "max" power.

Using dynmat or alternatives is a good idea, especially on the doors and trunk. Not necessary for the WHOLE car, it adds a LOT of weight. You can do it, but honestly its not worth it for a vehicle thats not a competition vehicle.

As for mids/tweets, there are a variety of name brands out there that will perform fine. Although, majority of component sets would like to see power from an amplifier, not just a stock radio. They wont be coming even close to full potential. Dont bother worrying about mono/stereo, well, of course they should be played in stereo but not many amps or cd players have the option anymore.

A cap wont hurt anything, but its a band aid... Upgrade the "big three" (do a google search) and you should be ok. If you want to play your stereo with the car off a lot, yes, thats not idea for the batteries.
 
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