Car Audio experts...here is my story...?

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Joshua B

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I started out with a 500 watt rms (very under rated, can handle 1000w) Diamond d6 2 ohm subwoofer, hooked upto a Phoenix Gold 1600 watt (850 rms) mono block amp. They started out by wiring it the wrong way (at 1 ohm) and the amp is NOT 1 ohm stable, so the bass used to just "cut out" on me when turned up to higher volumes, and the amp got VERY HOT very quickly. So, they re-wired it at 4 ohms, but they had already damaged my sub by this time. It makes some kind of popping/crunchy noise which you can hear when you have the music volume very low...(it's coming from the sub) and also when you push the sub "in" it also makes a scrathing noise. But they said it wasn't "blown" so I guess it was just damaged. So, besides that the bass played fine for about 2 months and just recently, I smelled my subs "burning" very badly. I guess it was the voice coils. And then my amp went into "protect" mode and there is no more bass. Even now, a week later, there still is no bass, and even though the amp is cold, it is still always in "protect mode" Does this mean I need a new amp, or could it mean that my sub is possibly blown now? Would an amp go into protect mode just because a sub was blown? I didnt know that. I cant figure it out. Please help. Thanks
 
If I encountered a sub that was making a scratchy noise when you pushed on it, then I'd call it "blown". Apparently "they" don't think it's blown if you can send power through it and make it move back and forth. Now it's reached the point that I think even they would call blown. Chances are there's now a dead short in the voice coil. That's what's sending the amp into "protect" mode. I doubt there's any problem with the amp.

It's very common for a defective subwoofer to trigger an amp's protective circuit. If you test the positive and negative terminals with a multimeter set for resistance, you'll probably find almost no resistance between the terminals on one or both of the voice coils.
 
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