WTF - People giving you things, then wanting it back...?
- Thread starter Byakuya
- Start date
jethom33545
New member
X2
The engine build alone will be a month of work. My biggest thing I allreay stated. If running a stock engine, a stock clutch would be fine, (except in my jeep, chewed through 3 clutches with stock components...)
I would give it back. Your only asking for bullshit keeping it and installing it. Just do it right the first (make that second) time.
The engine build alone will be a month of work. My biggest thing I allreay stated. If running a stock engine, a stock clutch would be fine, (except in my jeep, chewed through 3 clutches with stock components...)
I would give it back. Your only asking for bullshit keeping it and installing it. Just do it right the first (make that second) time.
Make it the third time. 
First try:
My cylinder heads had some welds on the exhaust ports that leaked water. Heads = junked. I take out my frustration by hurling them around at times. The exhaust ports were ported into the water jacket and then polished up so the welds were nice and shiny like the rest of it. IT's only with the water all over it that the raw iron rusted to make the welds obvious.
Two other ports had the exact same problem. That's what you get for buying used hardware... sometimes the gamble pays off, sometimes it doesn't.
Second Try:
Block developes a crack in the #6 cylinder bore.
Just bad luck here. The guy that sold me that block is a buddy and he hooked me up with a new one, but it's not quite as a nice...
Third Try:
In progress...
I still dont understand how a 35 year old man can be so immature. Even when I was put off by it I still treated him respectfully, but he flew off hte deep end on me. Thank god he doesn't know where I live.
First try:
My cylinder heads had some welds on the exhaust ports that leaked water. Heads = junked. I take out my frustration by hurling them around at times. The exhaust ports were ported into the water jacket and then polished up so the welds were nice and shiny like the rest of it. IT's only with the water all over it that the raw iron rusted to make the welds obvious.
Two other ports had the exact same problem. That's what you get for buying used hardware... sometimes the gamble pays off, sometimes it doesn't.
Second Try:
Block developes a crack in the #6 cylinder bore.
Just bad luck here. The guy that sold me that block is a buddy and he hooked me up with a new one, but it's not quite as a nice...
Third Try:
In progress...
I still dont understand how a 35 year old man can be so immature. Even when I was put off by it I still treated him respectfully, but he flew off hte deep end on me. Thank god he doesn't know where I live.
People are idiots.
WOW, I've seen that once, but the block was junk before it was rebuilt. Well, 350's are more common than dirt, just get the magneflux done this time. Oh, and you could port and polish your heads.
EDIT: Fucking dual's, nothing beats a 4 bolt main. Course your not going ballz to the wall...
WOW, I've seen that once, but the block was junk before it was rebuilt. Well, 350's are more common than dirt, just get the magneflux done this time. Oh, and you could port and polish your heads.
EDIT: Fucking dual's, nothing beats a 4 bolt main. Course your not going ballz to the wall...
Kelly Belly! :DD
New member
I know man, but you only need a 4-bolt for 450+ flywheel horsepower, and I'm gonna be making only around 350 or so. I'm considering getting some splayed 4-bolt main caps, though... but I hear that's pricy to set up. But I can always do the splayed 4-bolt setup down the road whch is what i plan to do. I'll take it out in a few years and splay the mains and make it a 383. This block is virgin, stock bore, stock deck height, etc. So it's probably got 2 rebuilds at least left in it.
Splayed 4-bolt if you've never seen one. THey're stronger than nomal 4-bolt mains and you have to start with a 2-bolt block to do it.
Splayed 4-bolt if you've never seen one. THey're stronger than nomal 4-bolt mains and you have to start with a 2-bolt block to do it.
No it was plain water. I wanted to wait to make sure it was going to stay together before I wasted antifreeze in it. Also, much easier to drain water out than antifreeze, and I drained the water out of it like 5 times.
THe water in teh bore on the left of the affected one is from the water jacket (poured in through the cylinder heads as I took the headbolts out, you know how sbc decks are tilted so water ran into the bore as they came off), but for some reason the water in the #6 bore looked like it had just been sititng there rusting for a while. I dont know if it has oil in it or rust from the inside of the water jacket or what. No idea why it looked THAT bad to be honest. It had been sitting in there a week before I got to the point where I could pull the heads, though, so maybe it got that rusty hue during that process? Could be gas mixed in? I couldn't tell you man.
The crack wasnt there when the motor was put together, or at least itw asn't noticable. It developed. I think the water jacket in the block was rusting out and that bore failed first. Im sure hte others arent too far behind which is why I dont want to salvage it.
THe water in teh bore on the left of the affected one is from the water jacket (poured in through the cylinder heads as I took the headbolts out, you know how sbc decks are tilted so water ran into the bore as they came off), but for some reason the water in the #6 bore looked like it had just been sititng there rusting for a while. I dont know if it has oil in it or rust from the inside of the water jacket or what. No idea why it looked THAT bad to be honest. It had been sitting in there a week before I got to the point where I could pull the heads, though, so maybe it got that rusty hue during that process? Could be gas mixed in? I couldn't tell you man.
The crack wasnt there when the motor was put together, or at least itw asn't noticable. It developed. I think the water jacket in the block was rusting out and that bore failed first. Im sure hte others arent too far behind which is why I dont want to salvage it.
Thats how I run new builds.
Well, could have just been a bad block. You have to admit, thats way too much shit for a new build.
I wouldn't try to salvage it after looking at that pic of the cylinder. Thats bad. It could be salvaged, but you would have to do alot of testing on it to make sure you fixed the problem spots. Also, whats with the pin hole jackets on the inside of the block?
Yeah, start over bro, the more I look at those pic's the less I see in that block.
Well, could have just been a bad block. You have to admit, thats way too much shit for a new build.
I wouldn't try to salvage it after looking at that pic of the cylinder. Thats bad. It could be salvaged, but you would have to do alot of testing on it to make sure you fixed the problem spots. Also, whats with the pin hole jackets on the inside of the block?
Yeah, start over bro, the more I look at those pic's the less I see in that block.
metalshred95
New member
Definitely way too much shit for a new build. It happens I guess.
And what are you talking about with the "pin hole jackets"? Are you referring to the head gasket? That's normal.
All it would take is a sleeve to fix that bore. But the block already has 2 sleeves in it, and it's just gotten ridiculous. It's a desirable block except for that. But now it apparently has developed a rusting problem. You can see in the picture I just put up how rusty the water jacket is in there. I'm certain it's just rusted through enough to weaken the cylinder wall enough to crack as soon as any real stress was put on it. It's also .060 over - which is the limit for a sbc. So my main issue is that if I want to be able to use this block, I will want to sleeve every single bore. Now a properly installed sleeve is stronger than the the virgin metal there before. But it's expensive. $100 a hole. And Im not going to sleeve that one bore and then drive another 10k miles and have the same thing happen to another bore since they're all exposed to same conditions.
But since the new block is a newer style block, I can use a run of the mill normal flywheel, instead of getting a $400 custom aftermarket flywheel drilled for the old style crankshafts to adapt to a newer style transmission. So that made the newer block slightly more desirable to me.
And what are you talking about with the "pin hole jackets"? Are you referring to the head gasket? That's normal.
All it would take is a sleeve to fix that bore. But the block already has 2 sleeves in it, and it's just gotten ridiculous. It's a desirable block except for that. But now it apparently has developed a rusting problem. You can see in the picture I just put up how rusty the water jacket is in there. I'm certain it's just rusted through enough to weaken the cylinder wall enough to crack as soon as any real stress was put on it. It's also .060 over - which is the limit for a sbc. So my main issue is that if I want to be able to use this block, I will want to sleeve every single bore. Now a properly installed sleeve is stronger than the the virgin metal there before. But it's expensive. $100 a hole. And Im not going to sleeve that one bore and then drive another 10k miles and have the same thing happen to another bore since they're all exposed to same conditions.
But since the new block is a newer style block, I can use a run of the mill normal flywheel, instead of getting a $400 custom aftermarket flywheel drilled for the old style crankshafts to adapt to a newer style transmission. So that made the newer block slightly more desirable to me.