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Winter storage tips
- Thread starter Reef_Guy
- Start date
admiralsfrk30
New member
HA! I got a million of em
0-0 (A13X!!) 0-0
New member
I'll be putting an old blanket down in my garage under the bike, getting both tires off the ground, leaving the battery in while using the BatteryTender, changing the oil right before along with washing the bike and cleaning/waxing the chain. I also have a 5-layer custom breathable/weather proof cover I keep it under in the garage so no dust collects.
Winter around here is usually last part of December, January, and February with a few days during that is nice enough to bring it out for a ride. No need for fuel stabilizer in this case.
Winter around here is usually last part of December, January, and February with a few days during that is nice enough to bring it out for a ride. No need for fuel stabilizer in this case.
Never Lose Hope
New member
why would you start it during the winter months if there's no intention to take a ride, dry starts can't be good and one dry start in the spring after storage is better than several over the winter months. $.02
mrs.moody_uzumaki
New member
Ok, 2,000 miles and I would say to definitely change that oil out for new stuff. That's enough mileage to collect a lot of acids and other junk so change it and be one step less to do before spring. If it has been less than 200 miles since your last change you can leave it.
And what's this about a second change before spring? Change it in the fall, DON'T start it unless you are going to ride it, and that winter oil is ok to run until you reach your next interval. Absolutely no sense changing out good, clean oil just because it sat in the sump all winter.
Also, don't forget to put a knot of steel wool in each muffler end cap and spray with WD-40. This will keep the mice from making a nest in your exhaust.
And what's this about a second change before spring? Change it in the fall, DON'T start it unless you are going to ride it, and that winter oil is ok to run until you reach your next interval. Absolutely no sense changing out good, clean oil just because it sat in the sump all winter.
Also, don't forget to put a knot of steel wool in each muffler end cap and spray with WD-40. This will keep the mice from making a nest in your exhaust.
chelschubz
New member
Great advice C, thanks.
It will be odd, as the bike will have had no miles on it. I'm having the dealer drop it off at my garage next week and I won't be able to get on it until at least Thanksgiving due to a broken wrist.
I'll keep y'all posted on what the mechanic says about the stabilizer, will be interesting to see what they say.
It will be odd, as the bike will have had no miles on it. I'm having the dealer drop it off at my garage next week and I won't be able to get on it until at least Thanksgiving due to a broken wrist.
I'll keep y'all posted on what the mechanic says about the stabilizer, will be interesting to see what they say.
Fσx☮Account suspended
New member
"Top off fuel (no corrosion)"
848 or 1098 etc. have a plastic tank
848 or 1098 etc. have a plastic tank
AustinGarrod.ca
New member
Add stabilizer, fill tank, run the engine to get it mixed and distributed through the fuel system. Drive it every chance you get (usually every 2 weeks for me), keep the tender on as needed.
Fuel begins to degrade after about 30 days, 4-6 months sitting gumming and varnishing an expensive fuel system can cause issues.
Fuel begins to degrade after about 30 days, 4-6 months sitting gumming and varnishing an expensive fuel system can cause issues.
TydusArandor
New member
interesting, does anything show on the dash when batt tender is plugged in?