What's the Key to Makes a Mountain Bike Good at Dirt Jumping?
- Thread starter Alex
- Start date
K_Alejandro
New member
I assume that you are talking about the equipment.
DJ is VERY hard on the bike, so you will need a bike that is strong as __ck and likewise for the fork. Most people who have a DJ specific bike use a hardtail frame.
DJ bikes are almost always fairly small (as a discipline, it shares a lot with BMX) and the frame geometry itself is similar to that of trials bikes.
The primary difference is that many people chose to use only one or no brakes for DJ because it usually involves short runs or a circuit (which is now also developing into pump riding - basically DJ on a circuit, but more momentum oriented)... and you don't usually need to slow down for DJ. Hitting your brakes while airborne is also a common mistake that can easily lead to a badly cased landing.
I personally am not a huge fan of riding brakeless at any time, but riding with one brake is a decent compromise that also helps with weight. Riding brakeless is particularly hazardous when other people are on the track - either taking pics/movies or riding. People do dumb things, and if they get hurt, you can easily be held liable. Yay for lawsuits.
The DJ bike's small size makes it 'flickable'. Which basically means that you can manipulate the bike in the air with less effort. Weight is only part of this equation. Other considerations include the placement of the top tube, wheelbase length, handlebar rise/angle/stem geometry, and often means that the seat and seatpost are very low. Some of these are 'more is better'. Some of these just need to be adjusted so they suit you, your riding style and the bike itself.
The impact of landing is very rough - even if you are smooth like butter, so you will usually see strengthened and/or horizontal dropouts on the back. You will also see similar strengthening on the fork.
The fork will usually have very stiff strings, fairly low travel (often 3-4 inches... sometimes less or even rigid for some) and is often a fair bit heavier than a fork for AM, XC, FR or DH type riding. This also usually means that it's cheaper too. There is little or no need for complicated damping systems in the fork. A simple damping system is fine. I really like answer's TPC damping system for bottom-out resistance, but I don't know if they have a DJ specific fork with that and it's probably not worth worrying about. If your budget is low, you might come across it in the second hand market. Switch for the stiffest springs you can and use a thicker oil and you will do great until you run into a tree and crack it.
The frame will need a rather burly front end, which means very, very strong headtube design and welds. I personally am a fan of onepointfive and I see no reason that any DJ would not benefit from something like this. Likewise, the 'thicker is better' principle holds true for the through-axle as well. 20mm throughaxles are strongly recommended.
DJ frequently sees ovalized headtubes and badly wrecked forks.
You will probably end up with a fairly heavy wheelset as well, but it doesn't need to be expensive. Learn to tune your wheels yourself. A regularly maintained and well trued/tensioned wheel can be surprisingly strong. I rode a super light XC rim on my all purpose hardtail for 9 years that was a bit flexy, but otherwise gave no troubles even though we (my crazy roommate and I) put that thing through H E double hockeysticks.
The bike does NOT have to be very light. There is a fair bit of room in DJ for preference with the weight of the bike. That's because this is a gravity and momentum oriented sport.
If you like doing tricks, a light bike is probably preferable.
If you are getting started and desire stability both on the ground and in the air, a heavier bike will actually serve you better. That doesn't mean you want to purposefully stack on extra weight, but it does mean that you don't have to worry about it if it seems heavy.
I know guys who ride 35 lb hardtails.
For comparison, my freeride single pivot is about 38 lbs.
DJ is VERY hard on the bike, so you will need a bike that is strong as __ck and likewise for the fork. Most people who have a DJ specific bike use a hardtail frame.
DJ bikes are almost always fairly small (as a discipline, it shares a lot with BMX) and the frame geometry itself is similar to that of trials bikes.
The primary difference is that many people chose to use only one or no brakes for DJ because it usually involves short runs or a circuit (which is now also developing into pump riding - basically DJ on a circuit, but more momentum oriented)... and you don't usually need to slow down for DJ. Hitting your brakes while airborne is also a common mistake that can easily lead to a badly cased landing.
I personally am not a huge fan of riding brakeless at any time, but riding with one brake is a decent compromise that also helps with weight. Riding brakeless is particularly hazardous when other people are on the track - either taking pics/movies or riding. People do dumb things, and if they get hurt, you can easily be held liable. Yay for lawsuits.
The DJ bike's small size makes it 'flickable'. Which basically means that you can manipulate the bike in the air with less effort. Weight is only part of this equation. Other considerations include the placement of the top tube, wheelbase length, handlebar rise/angle/stem geometry, and often means that the seat and seatpost are very low. Some of these are 'more is better'. Some of these just need to be adjusted so they suit you, your riding style and the bike itself.
The impact of landing is very rough - even if you are smooth like butter, so you will usually see strengthened and/or horizontal dropouts on the back. You will also see similar strengthening on the fork.
The fork will usually have very stiff strings, fairly low travel (often 3-4 inches... sometimes less or even rigid for some) and is often a fair bit heavier than a fork for AM, XC, FR or DH type riding. This also usually means that it's cheaper too. There is little or no need for complicated damping systems in the fork. A simple damping system is fine. I really like answer's TPC damping system for bottom-out resistance, but I don't know if they have a DJ specific fork with that and it's probably not worth worrying about. If your budget is low, you might come across it in the second hand market. Switch for the stiffest springs you can and use a thicker oil and you will do great until you run into a tree and crack it.
The frame will need a rather burly front end, which means very, very strong headtube design and welds. I personally am a fan of onepointfive and I see no reason that any DJ would not benefit from something like this. Likewise, the 'thicker is better' principle holds true for the through-axle as well. 20mm throughaxles are strongly recommended.
DJ frequently sees ovalized headtubes and badly wrecked forks.
You will probably end up with a fairly heavy wheelset as well, but it doesn't need to be expensive. Learn to tune your wheels yourself. A regularly maintained and well trued/tensioned wheel can be surprisingly strong. I rode a super light XC rim on my all purpose hardtail for 9 years that was a bit flexy, but otherwise gave no troubles even though we (my crazy roommate and I) put that thing through H E double hockeysticks.
The bike does NOT have to be very light. There is a fair bit of room in DJ for preference with the weight of the bike. That's because this is a gravity and momentum oriented sport.
If you like doing tricks, a light bike is probably preferable.
If you are getting started and desire stability both on the ground and in the air, a heavier bike will actually serve you better. That doesn't mean you want to purposefully stack on extra weight, but it does mean that you don't have to worry about it if it seems heavy.
I know guys who ride 35 lb hardtails.
For comparison, my freeride single pivot is about 38 lbs.
K_Alejandro
New member
I assume that you are talking about the equipment.
DJ is VERY hard on the bike, so you will need a bike that is strong as __ck and likewise for the fork. Most people who have a DJ specific bike use a hardtail frame.
DJ bikes are almost always fairly small (as a discipline, it shares a lot with BMX) and the frame geometry itself is similar to that of trials bikes.
The primary difference is that many people chose to use only one or no brakes for DJ because it usually involves short runs or a circuit (which is now also developing into pump riding - basically DJ on a circuit, but more momentum oriented)... and you don't usually need to slow down for DJ. Hitting your brakes while airborne is also a common mistake that can easily lead to a badly cased landing.
I personally am not a huge fan of riding brakeless at any time, but riding with one brake is a decent compromise that also helps with weight. Riding brakeless is particularly hazardous when other people are on the track - either taking pics/movies or riding. People do dumb things, and if they get hurt, you can easily be held liable. Yay for lawsuits.
The DJ bike's small size makes it 'flickable'. Which basically means that you can manipulate the bike in the air with less effort. Weight is only part of this equation. Other considerations include the placement of the top tube, wheelbase length, handlebar rise/angle/stem geometry, and often means that the seat and seatpost are very low. Some of these are 'more is better'. Some of these just need to be adjusted so they suit you, your riding style and the bike itself.
The impact of landing is very rough - even if you are smooth like butter, so you will usually see strengthened and/or horizontal dropouts on the back. You will also see similar strengthening on the fork.
The fork will usually have very stiff strings, fairly low travel (often 3-4 inches... sometimes less or even rigid for some) and is often a fair bit heavier than a fork for AM, XC, FR or DH type riding. This also usually means that it's cheaper too. There is little or no need for complicated damping systems in the fork. A simple damping system is fine. I really like answer's TPC damping system for bottom-out resistance, but I don't know if they have a DJ specific fork with that and it's probably not worth worrying about. If your budget is low, you might come across it in the second hand market. Switch for the stiffest springs you can and use a thicker oil and you will do great until you run into a tree and crack it.
The frame will need a rather burly front end, which means very, very strong headtube design and welds. I personally am a fan of onepointfive and I see no reason that any DJ would not benefit from something like this. Likewise, the 'thicker is better' principle holds true for the through-axle as well. 20mm throughaxles are strongly recommended.
DJ frequently sees ovalized headtubes and badly wrecked forks.
You will probably end up with a fairly heavy wheelset as well, but it doesn't need to be expensive. Learn to tune your wheels yourself. A regularly maintained and well trued/tensioned wheel can be surprisingly strong. I rode a super light XC rim on my all purpose hardtail for 9 years that was a bit flexy, but otherwise gave no troubles even though we (my crazy roommate and I) put that thing through H E double hockeysticks.
The bike does NOT have to be very light. There is a fair bit of room in DJ for preference with the weight of the bike. That's because this is a gravity and momentum oriented sport.
If you like doing tricks, a light bike is probably preferable.
If you are getting started and desire stability both on the ground and in the air, a heavier bike will actually serve you better. That doesn't mean you want to purposefully stack on extra weight, but it does mean that you don't have to worry about it if it seems heavy.
I know guys who ride 35 lb hardtails.
For comparison, my freeride single pivot is about 38 lbs.
DJ is VERY hard on the bike, so you will need a bike that is strong as __ck and likewise for the fork. Most people who have a DJ specific bike use a hardtail frame.
DJ bikes are almost always fairly small (as a discipline, it shares a lot with BMX) and the frame geometry itself is similar to that of trials bikes.
The primary difference is that many people chose to use only one or no brakes for DJ because it usually involves short runs or a circuit (which is now also developing into pump riding - basically DJ on a circuit, but more momentum oriented)... and you don't usually need to slow down for DJ. Hitting your brakes while airborne is also a common mistake that can easily lead to a badly cased landing.
I personally am not a huge fan of riding brakeless at any time, but riding with one brake is a decent compromise that also helps with weight. Riding brakeless is particularly hazardous when other people are on the track - either taking pics/movies or riding. People do dumb things, and if they get hurt, you can easily be held liable. Yay for lawsuits.
The DJ bike's small size makes it 'flickable'. Which basically means that you can manipulate the bike in the air with less effort. Weight is only part of this equation. Other considerations include the placement of the top tube, wheelbase length, handlebar rise/angle/stem geometry, and often means that the seat and seatpost are very low. Some of these are 'more is better'. Some of these just need to be adjusted so they suit you, your riding style and the bike itself.
The impact of landing is very rough - even if you are smooth like butter, so you will usually see strengthened and/or horizontal dropouts on the back. You will also see similar strengthening on the fork.
The fork will usually have very stiff strings, fairly low travel (often 3-4 inches... sometimes less or even rigid for some) and is often a fair bit heavier than a fork for AM, XC, FR or DH type riding. This also usually means that it's cheaper too. There is little or no need for complicated damping systems in the fork. A simple damping system is fine. I really like answer's TPC damping system for bottom-out resistance, but I don't know if they have a DJ specific fork with that and it's probably not worth worrying about. If your budget is low, you might come across it in the second hand market. Switch for the stiffest springs you can and use a thicker oil and you will do great until you run into a tree and crack it.
The frame will need a rather burly front end, which means very, very strong headtube design and welds. I personally am a fan of onepointfive and I see no reason that any DJ would not benefit from something like this. Likewise, the 'thicker is better' principle holds true for the through-axle as well. 20mm throughaxles are strongly recommended.
DJ frequently sees ovalized headtubes and badly wrecked forks.
You will probably end up with a fairly heavy wheelset as well, but it doesn't need to be expensive. Learn to tune your wheels yourself. A regularly maintained and well trued/tensioned wheel can be surprisingly strong. I rode a super light XC rim on my all purpose hardtail for 9 years that was a bit flexy, but otherwise gave no troubles even though we (my crazy roommate and I) put that thing through H E double hockeysticks.
The bike does NOT have to be very light. There is a fair bit of room in DJ for preference with the weight of the bike. That's because this is a gravity and momentum oriented sport.
If you like doing tricks, a light bike is probably preferable.
If you are getting started and desire stability both on the ground and in the air, a heavier bike will actually serve you better. That doesn't mean you want to purposefully stack on extra weight, but it does mean that you don't have to worry about it if it seems heavy.
I know guys who ride 35 lb hardtails.
For comparison, my freeride single pivot is about 38 lbs.