M
My Name Is Arthur
Guest
I want a audio system that bumps really loud with loud loud amps and subwoofers anyways.. and a good not so expensive car well not expensive at all any suggestions thanks in adv
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Whats a good car and audio system to go with it? at the age of 16?
P
Parrots Custom Car Audio
Guest
A Car to put it all in
Not a Pioneer Head unit
First U need 0 gg Power cable if you r serious for + and -
A 80 amp or 165 amp Alternator
Hard core Fuse Holder with either 100amp, 150amp, 200amp fuses
Decent RCA Cable
A head unit of your choosing with RCA front RCA rear and a Single RCA mono out ( Check out Axis Audio Radios We use them in
Comps)
6 gg cable for main Mem power for Head Unit
Top Grade MDF Timber for making sub Boxes and speaker mounting points
Capacitor for your full range Fill if you choose to have one
T nuts and bolts to suit for bolting subs into box
also a good box design to suit your subs
1 car audio battery will be fine for normal use ( Optima is a good
brand ) but if you want to show of 2 or 3 would be even better
All amps rms output should match the rms of the speaker they will be driving or at least over by 25 %
SUB 500 RMS = AMP 500 RMS
2 SUBS 500 RMS =1000 RMS = AMP 1000 RMS
Make sure you make an MDF parcel shelf for best quality sound and performance
Sealed = accurate bass
ported = exaggerated bass
bandpass = exaggerated bass with a narrow band of frequencies (it's basically a sealed and a ported in one, also used in
competition).
The uncommon ones (more for competition use):
T-line (Transmission Line)
Solobaric
Folded Horn
Conical
Box Is what produces deep base 2 8" subs here in Aus produced 140 db in a specially built box so size is complete preference
only
A box Can also change the Wattage of a speaker depending on type and size of the box and your amp should match the RMS that
you end up with there r equations you can find on the net
Bridging amp
amp+ to sp1+
amp- to sp1 -
or
amp+ to sp1+ to sp2+
amp- to sp1 - to sp2-
Will give you 2 ohm if your amp is 2 ohm stable
or
amp+ to sp1+ to sp2+ to sp3+ to sp4+
amp- to sp1 - to sp2- to sp3- to sp4-
Will give you 1 ohm if your amp is 1 ohm stable
or
Recommended for best sound Quality
amp+ to sp1+ sp1- to sp2+ sp2- to amp-
Will give you 8 ohm and Peak at 4 ohm at max power
Are your subs single or dual voice coil
both will shake your car
10 s will give you Harder bass
I have used 10s Competition and beaten 15s it all
comes down to box
I have 2 x 8s Altech Lansing in a band pass box pulls 136 db Most pioneer 12s and 15s have trouble breaking a true 135 db
Personal pref
go too www.autowreck.com.au member ship is free log ingo too members rides check out parrots Orange Gemini PVan
go to www.rlsnell.20m.com and have a look at the colt the 2 x 10 Extreme Selenium in the front of the box without the 4 x 12
Extreme Selenium 10" going pull 140 db
tried and tested in db drags australian comps.
I have beaten cars with 2 x 15s with just the TENS
Extreme Selenium in the front doors pull 140 db as well the whole system has pulled in
latter shows 149.9 db = 4 x 12 & 2 x10 Extreme Selenium
This System is one of the Best Sound Quality cars in the world
all subs r fine once the amp is tuned properlyunfortunatelyy most people just turn everything up BIG NONO
if you want great bass NO Cap - Caps are for full range amps only not Subs it is a myth that if you put caps on your subs you
get more bass
you don't you get batter Quality bass and less bang and boom the cap sends an even flow of the power to your amp you loose 25
% off ( Tried and Tested ) put a 1 frd on your other speakers and it will help prolong the life of your speakers and amps.
this is not saying not to as I run Caps In My SQ car But not my SPL car
Not a Pioneer Head unit
First U need 0 gg Power cable if you r serious for + and -
A 80 amp or 165 amp Alternator
Hard core Fuse Holder with either 100amp, 150amp, 200amp fuses
Decent RCA Cable
A head unit of your choosing with RCA front RCA rear and a Single RCA mono out ( Check out Axis Audio Radios We use them in
Comps)
6 gg cable for main Mem power for Head Unit
Top Grade MDF Timber for making sub Boxes and speaker mounting points
Capacitor for your full range Fill if you choose to have one
T nuts and bolts to suit for bolting subs into box
also a good box design to suit your subs
1 car audio battery will be fine for normal use ( Optima is a good
brand ) but if you want to show of 2 or 3 would be even better
All amps rms output should match the rms of the speaker they will be driving or at least over by 25 %
SUB 500 RMS = AMP 500 RMS
2 SUBS 500 RMS =1000 RMS = AMP 1000 RMS
Make sure you make an MDF parcel shelf for best quality sound and performance
Sealed = accurate bass
ported = exaggerated bass
bandpass = exaggerated bass with a narrow band of frequencies (it's basically a sealed and a ported in one, also used in
competition).
The uncommon ones (more for competition use):
T-line (Transmission Line)
Solobaric
Folded Horn
Conical
Box Is what produces deep base 2 8" subs here in Aus produced 140 db in a specially built box so size is complete preference
only
A box Can also change the Wattage of a speaker depending on type and size of the box and your amp should match the RMS that
you end up with there r equations you can find on the net
Bridging amp
amp+ to sp1+
amp- to sp1 -
or
amp+ to sp1+ to sp2+
amp- to sp1 - to sp2-
Will give you 2 ohm if your amp is 2 ohm stable
or
amp+ to sp1+ to sp2+ to sp3+ to sp4+
amp- to sp1 - to sp2- to sp3- to sp4-
Will give you 1 ohm if your amp is 1 ohm stable
or
Recommended for best sound Quality
amp+ to sp1+ sp1- to sp2+ sp2- to amp-
Will give you 8 ohm and Peak at 4 ohm at max power
Are your subs single or dual voice coil
both will shake your car
10 s will give you Harder bass
I have used 10s Competition and beaten 15s it all
comes down to box
I have 2 x 8s Altech Lansing in a band pass box pulls 136 db Most pioneer 12s and 15s have trouble breaking a true 135 db
Personal pref
go too www.autowreck.com.au member ship is free log ingo too members rides check out parrots Orange Gemini PVan
go to www.rlsnell.20m.com and have a look at the colt the 2 x 10 Extreme Selenium in the front of the box without the 4 x 12
Extreme Selenium 10" going pull 140 db
tried and tested in db drags australian comps.
I have beaten cars with 2 x 15s with just the TENS
Extreme Selenium in the front doors pull 140 db as well the whole system has pulled in
latter shows 149.9 db = 4 x 12 & 2 x10 Extreme Selenium
This System is one of the Best Sound Quality cars in the world
all subs r fine once the amp is tuned properlyunfortunatelyy most people just turn everything up BIG NONO
if you want great bass NO Cap - Caps are for full range amps only not Subs it is a myth that if you put caps on your subs you
get more bass
you don't you get batter Quality bass and less bang and boom the cap sends an even flow of the power to your amp you loose 25
% off ( Tried and Tested ) put a 1 frd on your other speakers and it will help prolong the life of your speakers and amps.
this is not saying not to as I run Caps In My SQ car But not my SPL car