What to look for in a 1999 Road King - Just purchased

M

mryansg1

New member
First off I'm new to motorcycles and just purchased my first bike - a 99 RK. What do I need to inspect and look for as far as defects in design etc that I need to potentially modify or improve. This bike has 18K on it. I've heard cam bearings for one. How do I inspect. What else is there on this bike to look out for? I'd like to correct BEFORE something major goes wrong. Plan on putting the miles on her going back and forth to work (60 miles a day).

Thanks and have a great Memorial day weekend

Shipsmate
 
Wecome!
You just replace the cam bearings.Another to check is the cam chain tensioners,but depending on the mileage,you should replcace those also.
Lots of info here if you use the search feature.
 
Just ride it - with only 18,000 miles on it it is still NEW.

Later you can check the cam chain tensioners at 30,000 miles. Dont worry about it, get gas, hang on and go.
 
I got my 1999 RK used in 2006. It had just less than 8000 miles on it, and is damned close to 50,000 now. No problems of any kind. I check the tensioners regularly, and have not yet swapped out anything internally. We'll see what happens in another 50,000miles!

Oh yeah....Get yourself a FACTORY service manual...$69.00 from J & P cycles....worth its weight in chrome!

Don't be afraid to do your own work. You'll know the bike better, save a ton of dollars in shop costs, and have the satisfaction of knowing that you can fix your own ride!
 
I have a 99 RKC, it has just over 60K on it now, I just replaced the chain tensioners a couple of months ago, they where about half worn out, but still didn't want to worry about it, the indy who did my work told me he has seen them fail any where from 20K up, I had the bearings replaced at that same time.
I have not really had any othere problems with the bike, I love it!!
Terry
 
The swingarm on my 2000RG (same one as the RK's & Electraglides use) cracked and I saw a 99 Ultra that cracked too. Other than that and that cam chain tensioner issues they are pretty solid. Mine made it about 97k on the original tensioners and still runs the original drive belt.
 
Welcome to the forum...I don't give mechanical advice on the forum as im afraid of giving false info and hate to be responsible for other's lives... That being said i would recommend you get yourself a H.D. manual full of very helpful info....The search feature on the forum can also be your friend if you need info asap...as most shiot has been covered at one time or another,so most recent post are from guys who don't know how to use search feature....LOL...
Thanks for wishing us a Happy Memorial Day....That wont be till May..But thanks for the early well wishings...
Happy Labor Day Weekend to you and Yours!!!!
Tim.........o~`o.............................
Hope to see you around Shipsmate......
 
I have a 1999, and there's a couple of bearing issues, depending on your engine manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.

1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the

A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings

These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.

I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.
 
My '99 had the cam bearing replaced at 10,000 when they started to fail. I understand that the factory warantee repair kit included new cam tensioners. My indy checked them last year and they were in good shape at about 40,000 miles. I have over 50,000 miles now and the only other issue I had was to replace a starter. The bike runs really strong, puts my other friends newer fuel injected "88 TC's to shame, and I only have a stage 1, carb set up (jetted of course).

Welcome to the board and enjoy your '99! It's been very good to me.
 
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