The Stebel mounted on my S50

A

aric s

New member
Well even though it's pretty cold here right now, I figured I had to wire that sucker up one of these days, so I bundled up and did it today. I wired the power takeoff to the + terminal for the accessory circuit in the fuse box (not to the - terminal too for the ground) with a 20 amp inline fuse going to the relay, instead of wiring it directly from the + terminal on the battery. This was a cleaner install, shorter length of wire so it doesn't get rubbed somewhere and is more easily hidden, and I'm only using the + terminal which basically comes straight from the battery when the key is on. If I used the - terminal there too for the ground, I would only be protected by a 10 amp fuse for those 2 connections instead of the 20 amp I put in there.
The ground from the horn goes to the screw holding on the choke cable, directly to the frame of the bike.
As has been said, that sucker is loud, just what I wanted, to tell people to wake up and back off.

While I was in there, I also wired up my brakelight modulator to 2 extra LED lights I bought and mounted to either side of my luggage rack. Those 2 lights flash then go steady when the brake is applied, the stock brake light stays steady as I didn't wire that in to pulsate. Anything to attract more attention and keep the cagers awake.
With the headlight and brakelight modulators and Stebel and bright riding clothes, I figure that's about all I can do to keep some a**hole from running into me, saying "I never saw him."

Everyone should remove their seats and side covers every once in a while and see what's in there, it does a world of good to find out where everything is and how to get to it.
 
1) It comes "directly from the battery"......through the ignition switch. That is NOT the recommended way to connect it for a reason ( possible burned out ignition switch). You might get by with it but it is a gamble.

2) Don't understand this at all. Ground (-) connections are not fused. The (-) side should be run to chassis ground as near as possible to the horn (but behind the steering head bearing). It sounds like that is what you did. Your reference to a different fuse size depending on where you connect the negative lead sure has me confused.
 
Oh right you are, ER, great one from the north central US (that's supposed to be a compliment). I went back at looked at the wiring diagram and that + terminal is only protected with a 10 amp fuse,:???::ooops:, so I wired it to the jumper cable direct from the battery on a post, nearby to the fuse box, and now it's protected by my 20 amp fuse inline from there. That heavy lead is hot all the time, but the horn button is activated by the ignition switch to activate the relay. I must have had too many hot toddys before going out to work on the bike, not a good move, but it makes you feel better inside.:fight1: Thanks.:)
And everything still works as planned.
 
Nice placement. That looks pretty darn clean for an unintended bolt-on.

Off topic question: I like the look and protection offered by the fork-seal shield. Can you tell me where you found those?

Thanks
 
I bought a "Wolo Bad Boy" (same horn) from Northern Tool when they had it on sale for $25. I put mine on this past weekend, wired it through the supplied relay and directly to the battery, adding a 20 amp fuse (purchased the in-line fuse holder from AutoZone). It is mounted similar to yours and looks good also (2007 Suzi C50T).
 
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