The Stebel mounted on my S50

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$BoomBoom$

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I mounted the Stebel air horn to a short piece of stainless steel using the front bolt holding down the left cylinder head chrome side cover. (Man that bolt is long). This position fits nice, looks unobtrusive, it's far enough away from the exhaust pipe so it doesn't melt, and is high enough to keep it away from road debris.
I can't find any info as to the amount of current the accessory terminal in the fuse box can carry. It would be cleaner to draw the power from there but maybe I'll just wire it direct to the + battery terminal, with a 20amp fuse inline.

(No nasty comments on the rust - I am constantly cleaning this off- I live right on the coast in Fl. and the salty air just gets to everything.)
 
Since he was talking about where to get the power from.........I assumed that he WAS doing that. Not a good assumption, maybe. :whistle:
 
I have the relay, I'm well aware of that - just looking at how to get the power to it. Does anybody offhand know the capacity of the accessory terminals in the fuse box? I guess I can open it up and look at the size of the fuse in there.
I saw a setup online where a switch was wired in to select from either the regular horn or the Stebel air horn when you hit the horn button, so you can leave the stock horn in place if you want to be able to use either/or horn, like sort of selecting regular vs. extremely loud mode, sort of like city/country driving. You still need the relay in place for the demands of the air horn.
 
For what it's worth, I found in the Clymer manual wiring diagram that the accessory outlet in the fuse box is rated at 10 amps, so I'll probably wire the hot lead directly off the battery with a 20 amp fuse inline. I can't find what the current draw is for the Stebel, but it must be hefty because they recommend using 12 gauge wire to power it.
 
FYI, I and many others have this wired through the stock horn button. No issues unless you don't use a relay which I believe you have taken care of.

Technical specifications:
Sound Output: 139 dB
Operating Voltage: 12 Volts
Absorbed Current: less than 18A
Fundamental Frequency: 530 Hz & 680 Hz
Weight: 0.6 kg (1.3 lbs)
Dimensions: Approximately 4.8"x4.5"x3"
Reaction time: less than 90 milli-secon
 
I'd venture a guess that everybody uses the stock horn button to trigger the relay. No reason to do it any other way......unless maybe you want to keep the stock horn too.

The question, I believe, was where to get the power from for the relay contacts and the actual horn. With the draw approaching 18 amps and the recomendation for 12 g wire, it pretty much has to be a new circuit. :bluethum:
 
snpnp_01_LRG.jpg
 
Thanks all. I have to wait 'till it stops raining and the holiday's over to get to it. And while I do that I'll also hook up my brake modulator to the 2 extra LED lights I got to put on the rear. The headlight modulator's already in and works as advertised.
 
I just wanted the most simple way to wire it up since I am somewhat of an electrical idiot. It worked well for me and has been on for two seasons now. Sucker is loud!!
 
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