Synthetic Oil?

O

o no its mo

New member
I'd bet anything this question is a repeated repeat, but I can't find the thread. I have an '06 C 50 Limited, at what point (mileage) should I change to synthetic oil and why? Some guys also say they use automotive synthetic in their bikes, doesn't sound right, is this an option:lol4:?
 
you should have searched "oil" there are more than a couple of posts on the subject here.

I will run down as best I can remember.

1) on high performance bikes, the friction modifiers in automobile synthetic oil will cause the clutch plates to slip - shouldn't be an issue on a cruiser
2) my rule of thumb - and this is just me; 5,000 miles.

Others will chime in shortly.

and then there's the choice of "which synthetic oil" and there is a can of worms.
 
I was involved in a similar discussion today where a few riders where saying they now always run synthetic.

I'd had the same question, just figured I'd do some research on it later
 
I run Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic in my C90. It has been a very popular oil for the 1500's but to be honest I have not heard of any fiddy riders using it. Don't know why it could not be used. Available in all Walmart stores for $20/gal.

As far as using auto synthetic go right ahead if you like a slipping clutch.
 
Responding to me??

Guess I should have stated "energy conserving" on the label. Don't know anyone personally just a few threads on other forums stating the slippage and come to find out they were using oil labeled "energy conserving" regardless of weight. I would think any auto synthetic, or dino oil, correct weight, not labeled "energy conserving" would work just fine. I have used auto oil in the past just not in the 90.

The Rotella T I use is a synthetic diesel oil. Not recommended for autos with cad. converters though.
 
Similar to frostbitevinnie, I just started using Rotella T 15w-40 synthetic on my 2007 C50.
Rides fine, and has no performance issues that I could detect.

I buy it at Walmart - cost me about $16 but you might get differing prices depending on location, sales, etc.
And the Fram oil filter ran me $6 and change, too, from there.
 
I have run auto synthetic oil, in the proper weight of course in my last 3 or 4 bikes, never had a problem. I change at the first service, 500 to 600 hundred miles which I also do myself. I am thinking of going with Rotella Synthetic for my GSX650 next oil change as I have heard good reports on it.

Of course you will have some one who will say anything except ****** (his favorite oil) will cause your cycle have problems.

Old Codger
 
My Intruder 800 went 135,000 miles on ther cheapest, no-name car oil I could find on sale. My 'new' Intruder has 85,000 on it already, also using whatever cheap, no-name car oil I can find on sale in bulk. My Electra Glide is pushing 60K already, never seen a drop of synthetic. I have lost track of how many miles are on my shovelhead (I always put in a fresh odo to keep track of when it is time to do the top end) but it probably has 250,000 on it, and has never seen a drop of synthetic either.

Run the correct weight of oil, change it and the filter frequently, and use whatever type of oil you want. As for switching to synthetic, should you decide you want to spend the money on it, you can do it at any time. Semi-synthetic oils are a blend of conventional and synthetic in the same bottle, so there are no issues with mixing them in the same engine.

Car oils with friction modifiers will make a wet clutch slip, most noticably with a high horsepower engine. I have put one quart in my Intruder while traveling just to top it off when there was nothing else available, and the clutch slipped immediately and continued to do so until I changed the oil. A guy here put car synthetic in his Cavalcade, and could not get the bike more than a block from home because the clutch was slipping. He changed it to motorcycle oil and no more problems. Your C50 is not exactly a torque monster, so yo may or may not have this problem.

The wet clutch also contaminates your oil quickly, as it sheds friction material into the engine oil every time you use the clutch, so no matter what oil you use change it at the recommended interval. The viscosity may not break down, but synthetic still gets dirty and full of acids, so just because the viscosity is fine for three times as long does not mean you should keep it in your motorcycle with a wet clutch for three times as long.
 
most excellent point, DrBob, and alot of us (at least myself) aren't always so religious about changing our oil.

that, and my xs850 has a canister type oil filter and it's a real pain, which is why I switched to synthetic.

luckily, my bike isn't "hi powered" and have yet (62 k) to notice significant clutch slippage even though the synthetic car oil has friction modifiers.
 
Rotella T6 Synthetic now meets JASO MA per the label on the 4 quart jug. About $20 at wal-Mart for gallon jug.

I changed my oil yesterday on my GSX 650F to Rotella T6 and used a WIX filter. It was hard to warm the oil as much as I would have liked to do before the change, it was under 30F so I only rode a few miles. I could have just let it sit and warm up but when the motor is running it is hard for me to not be riding.

Old Codger
 
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