sticking shifter - tough to get "neutral"

peno

New member
The manual probably doesn't mention people fitting Pazzo levers, with insufficient freeplay..
As Brett suggests - the spring retainer bolts bottom out against the posts of the soft-alloy clutch hub, so the tension on them only relates to:
1. The bolts not coming undone, and
2. Not stripping the threads in the clutch hub posts.
It won't relate to the problems described here.
There may be a problem with the gearshift centring setting - the base about which the gearchange moves up and down, as some have found - but the more likely solution is in flushing the hydraulic fluid.
For those who have replaced their levers with non-standard items - make sure your levers are not pressuring the hydraulics in the relaxed (fully out) position. Many problems on here have related to people changing levers and footpedals without understanding that hydraulic systems need to have NO PRESSURE on them to be able to bleed back. Otherwise pressure builds up in the system, which may account for the heat effect referred to above.
Essentially - if you own a modern Ducati, and you want to maintain it yourself, you should become proficient in servicing hydraulics.
To those having neutral lights illuminated inappropriately; you probably need the neutral switch (in the rear of the crankcase, behind the R) footrest) replaced. If you're still under warranty, it shouldn't cost you. These switches have been notorious as long as Ducatis have had them (since the mid-70s). Having said that - mine has been faultless for over 41,000 kms!
 
pat, I didn't adjust the plunger piece at all when changing levers as I was told this could cause a huge problem...this is my rear brake ALL over again.
 
Oh no! Not that again..!
Just make sure the lever is not pre-loading the hydraulic piston. If there is no freeplay prior to take-up of lever action, back off the adjuster 'til there is.
 
pat, I'm gonna go check on it right now. The brake side works fine.
The whole rear brake never would have happened had I not adjusted my lever position and forgotten about that minor detail.
Come to think of it though the clutch fluid wasn't bad after riding all last summer & this year it got bad in 2000mi...what changed? The lever!
 
Just checked and there is play before I feel tension in the lever which makes me think I have 4-5mm of play prior to actuating the clutch cylinder. What I did notice and didn't pay much attention to was my clutch plate has been turning black like a grease the last 3 rides...so looks like more & more my sealed bearing is unsealed...make sense? I will admit I got the cheap $70 pressure plate on ebay & it is probably cheaper material and cheaper bearing quality. I'm going to do the test ttpete said and if it is bad, decide if i want to upgrade to a better quality pressure plate instead of the bearing (the gold anodize looks like shite now).

Also, my lever pull has never been hard compared to my other friend's ducati's. Mine has always been softer than their even when they have aftermarket slave cylinders so maybe there is air?
 
sau, it works better if doing it on a roll and tap down from 2nd. At a standstill is tough. Sometimes I have to start releasing the clutch a bit and roll the bike a foot or so...by then the light is green.
 
guys, the bearing only spun 3/4 of a turn so that seems to be okay but I'm noticing more grime lately around the bearing. My pressure plate moves less than the other guys, so could I need to add to the plunger, am I not getting enough throw? Nevermind, that doesn't make sense because it works perfect when it is cold.
 
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