I have had the same problem with mine. The dealer bled the system and the problem went away for now. It's a wait and see if it comes back. The fact the problem happened in the first place is concerning - on a long ride. I also seem to get a "ghost" neutral where the display will show the bike is in N (neutral) but it's not. The clutch problem got to the point when fully engaged, I was still able to apply throttle and feel the bike pulling forward. The air bleed fixed the clutch engaging but I still had the ghost neutral problem - anyone else?
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sticking shifter - tough to get "neutral"
- Thread starter Tiya
- Start date
bar_mar_mar
New member
I've had the same issue with mine (shows neautral but isn't) and I will be changing clutch fluid when I can finally get back home in a few weeks. I'm hoping that will resolve it and if not, I'll be takin' it back to the dealer.
harlequinromance345
New member
Mine, I'm hoping, is the pressure plate bolts were too tight and didnt' full disengage the clutch which then roasted my fluid. I've properly torqued the pressure plate spring bolts & I'm going to change the clutch fluid/rebleed on Saturday and I bet my problem goes away. I've also placed my pazzos on 4 instead of 2 for the extra leverage.
Mine always goes into neutral if rolling but from a stop it is a pain.
Mine always goes into neutral if rolling but from a stop it is a pain.
softballyo_
New member
Is that even possible ? Unless you've used shorter bolts ?
To the OP - the clue is where you state you haven't ridden it for a while.
Definitely do a thorough flush/bleed on the hydraulic fluid. Remove the fluid from the reservoir, and replace with new. Bleed new fluid through to slave cylinder. Don't forget to bleed at master cylinder nipple also, as 'uphill' angle of master cylinder means air and contaminated fluid can be trapped there.
Adjusting lever throw for greater span will also help. Removing and re-greasing clutch and gear levers will always help gearchange, and should be done every year..
These are the most frequent service requirements of our model, after tyre pressures and lubing the chain.
Definitely do a thorough flush/bleed on the hydraulic fluid. Remove the fluid from the reservoir, and replace with new. Bleed new fluid through to slave cylinder. Don't forget to bleed at master cylinder nipple also, as 'uphill' angle of master cylinder means air and contaminated fluid can be trapped there.
Adjusting lever throw for greater span will also help. Removing and re-greasing clutch and gear levers will always help gearchange, and should be done every year..
These are the most frequent service requirements of our model, after tyre pressures and lubing the chain.
brettc, the manual said clutch issues were caused by 1 of 4 things...1 of them being improper spring tension, 2 being improper lever leverage. I replaced the springs with SS and the instructions said to use 8ft lbs but the manual says 3.5ft lbs so I've went with the 3.5 ft lbs setting and will just keep an eye on them. When I last checked them I think they were set to nearly 10ft lbs which is a lot more than recommended. Again, moved my pazzos to setting 4 for more leverage.
Similar to rogerjohnsen, I can have my bike in first gear, clutch fully in, and my bike pulls forward. So the clutch isn't disenganging properly. I think the spring tension, prematurely fried my fluid so now I have two problems. The bleed helped mine in the interim but the problem seems to get worse as the bike heats up. If I hit over 170 on the temps is when the bike gets worse so it has to be the clutch fluid as that is the only thing that would change with the bike temp because of where the hose routes.
Am I missing anything pat?
Similar to rogerjohnsen, I can have my bike in first gear, clutch fully in, and my bike pulls forward. So the clutch isn't disenganging properly. I think the spring tension, prematurely fried my fluid so now I have two problems. The bleed helped mine in the interim but the problem seems to get worse as the bike heats up. If I hit over 170 on the temps is when the bike gets worse so it has to be the clutch fluid as that is the only thing that would change with the bike temp because of where the hose routes.
Am I missing anything pat?
I think that is more for the static tension in the spring itself. If a spring went soft then your tension would be improper. When ever I've done those bolts, to me at least, it's as though the bolt bottoms out in the hub and the torque is more about not overtightening and potentially stripping the thread in the relatively soft hub. Hence my comment about shorter bolts, using a shorter bolt could effectively limit the travel of the plate. Try a bolt in the hub without a spring to see what I mean.
Sounding more like it. And if that has happened it would be wise to replace the O rings on the rod as well. They will most likely be worse for wear if it has indeed spun.
Sounding more like it. And if that has happened it would be wise to replace the O rings on the rod as well. They will most likely be worse for wear if it has indeed spun.
Yep that's it. the one in the centre of the clutch plate that the rod sits in. Just pull your plate off and 'feel' the bearing for smooth unhinderd rotation. It should feel firm ( no rattley movement) and smooth (no notchy or grabby feel when rotated. When in doubt, change it for a new one. They are a generic size and cheap. Of course if it is seized then it won't rotate at all.
The rod is not meant to spin and the one & only bearing is at the plate end, not at the slave. If it indeed has siezed and spun the rod then, other than the O rings I mentioned earlier, it would pay to check the condition of the slave as well.
The rod is not meant to spin and the one & only bearing is at the plate end, not at the slave. If it indeed has siezed and spun the rod then, other than the O rings I mentioned earlier, it would pay to check the condition of the slave as well.