Setting-up the PCV-AT for mileage and cooling

R

Rohit.fire

New member
I did basically the same thing with AFR and timing advance over a long trial and error period with the USB cable hanging out from under the cover. 07 Road Glide-103"-SE 204 cams-oil cooler. Once i got at what i thought was near perfect i set the trims at 5%. I'm not using any kind of map switch. Bike gets mid 40's running 75-80 MPH. I was really surprised how much i could advance the timing without pinging. That was like getting free mileage and HP. I advanced in cruise range and higher rpms with no problem. Bike runs exceptionally cool with oil temps in the tank of 180 running any speed on 95 degree day!! If you have understanding of internal combustion engines and how they work you can get outstanding results with a PCV/autotune if you know what you are doing.
 
@iclick,
Thanks for your reply. I have zeroed the timing and will see what happens. The bike is HDI indeed and I live in Europe, so now and again I need to keep up with BMW's on the Autobahn, which explains the high topspeed. I never pull through the gears, as in my opnion the whole charme of the torquey engine is that you do not have to. Only in sixth gear it should get beyond 4000 rpm. And there is where the problems start. Where in lower gears the engine keeps pulling beyond 4000 rpms in 6th gear you can actually feel it stopping out, so it might be that the higher (aerodynamic) load is opposite to the advanced timing. In all the fuel moto maps however you see an advanace of 4 degrees at 100% throttle for all gears. The valve in the exhaust is supposed to open and close for noise emission reasons. The purpose of the intake solenoid is unknown to me. I have read stories where the intake played up during dyno testing closing the valve a little bit at high rpms and that exactly what my problem feels like. I report the effects of zeroing the timing.

As for the chassis. The 2009 frame would seem to solve my stability problems but the do not have a 2009 or 2010 CVO RK so I will have to wait.
 
CR, it's hard to speculate what's going on with that HDI bike equipped with an intake solenoid and exhaust valve, and I don't even know what either of these do or when they do it. I suspect your problem relates to this, though. If calling to the U.S. is doable you might give Fuel Moto a call, as they probably have some experience with this.



You might try one of the stabilizers available for the pre-'09 bikes, like Ride Str8, TWR, Progressive Touring Link, etc.). They all work about the same way and the Progressive unit is the best bargain, IMO. From my experience on my '07 these will eliminate about 80% of the tail-wagging behavior in sweepers. If high-speed handling is a priority I would consider an '09 or newer bike with the improved chassis.
 
Truckerdave, I'd really appreciate a peek at your timing table. If it's not too much trouble, shoot me a pm and I'll forward you my email address.
 
I just tried using my switch for the fisrt time yesterday and it worked exactly how you would expect. Only rode about 30 miles, but when I got back home and hooked up the laptop, you could see all the trims in the cruise range reading exactly what you would expect (all -3's and -4's) Very cool. Can't wait to see how that translates into fuel mileage. Thanks everyone for all your help.
 
Is there a way to get the original timing table? Does HD use different timing over the rpm range and in different gears? Just advancing and retarding the timing without knowing the original timing seems like a potentially disasterous trial and error game. BTW 1. anyone have a good tip for bolt-in cams for a 2008 CVORK (more punch in higher rpms without sacrificing the bottom end) 2. the gearing seems to be very high on a CVO (manouvering at idle in 1st most of the time too fast) anyone experience lowering the final gear ratio?
 
OK I just installed dresser duals, V&H new design fishtails, the screamin eagle "ventilator" performance breather, and a PC V. I tried several maps and am currently using the canned M15-11-023. The bike seems to be running really hot and my mileage is in the dumps,,,,
I am thinking of getting the AT and I have seen some bung adapters that should allow me to use the sensors with no welding etc..
2010 Flhrc...
suggestions appreciated!!!! Thank You,,,,
 
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