Reinstall stock headers, slip ons

A

auggie

New member
I'm still having a lot of popping on decelleration so I'm going to try un-installing my stock headers and slip ons. The bike is running great otherwise, so I'm guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere.

I already purchased 2 new gaskets and 2 new exhaust clamps, but looking at the service manual, I need 4 clamps all together. It also looks like I will need a swivel socket to get to the bottom nut of the rear exhaust flange.

Are there any other "gotcha's" I should look out for? I do have the service manual and will be removing and installing the exhaust as specified. I will also use all new gaskets and clamps, just want to be sure I'm not missing anything. Oh yeah, i will be taking my time and have plenty of time allocated for this.

Thanks in advance!
 
Forgot to mention, I do have torque wrenches. Noticed one other thing, in the service manual it states to install the exhaust gaskets with the taper side out..... I looked at the new gaskets and don't see a taper anywhere. They are flat all the way around???
 
Before you mess with the exhaust add some fuel to your tuner (PCV, SERT, etc.) This might get rid of the popping. Also, go buy a pack of cigarettes, even if you don't smoke. Pull into the garage, and shine a bright light on each joint. Blow some smoke on each joint. You will be able to see any leaks.

If all else fails...

Make sure you use stock exhaust port gaskets because they usually seal the first time. One side of these are concave. The SE gaskets are thin and flat on both sides - I don't recommend these.

If you are chasing a leak then buy some Permatex copper gasket sealant at the auto parts store. During assembly, use the gasket sealant where the exhaust joints join with each other and to the mufflers as well. Obviously do not use the gasket sealant where the header pipes join with the engine. Wait a day before you fire the bike up so the gasket sealant can cure.

When you get the swivel socket make sure it is not one of those universal types that you put a half inch socket on. Get the actual swivel socket with the half inch fitting. There is more room this way. I like to add some anti-seize on the exhaust port studs and using new bolts does not hurt either. Stripping the exhaust port studs will completely ruin your day so take care not to over torque or bang the exhaust heads on them too badly.

Hope this helps. Take your time. I don't have to tell you that removing and installing the exhaust can be a major PITA.
 
I agree with atrain68 ........ if you haven't tried a new fuel map, and are happy with the new set-up, then I'd say ..... do the new map.

If you think you have an exhaust leak, you will be well advised to make up a mandrel from some 2" O.D. steel tubing about 10" long, and bevel one end's outer edge to about 45
 
I just replaced my screaming eagle gaskets with the stock crush style gaskets, much better seal IMHO. Also an open or closed wrench works great on the front lower bolt, 13mm i think. The Permatex copper gasket sealant is only about $7 at auto zone and removes very easy once it dries if you have any accident like i did on the shields, i need more lighting in my garage! Good luck!
 
Thanks again everyone. When you say blow smoke on the seals, if it's a leak, the smoke will be pulled in and the idle will change, correct?

I have the SERT but don't know how to add to the map, the dealer did it for me. Guess I will have to make an appointment for them to do it. The popping I'm getting sounds like muffled, lower volume pops. They are not loud or typical sounding backfires
 
When you blow the smoke the idle shouldn't change. If there is a leak you will see the smoke get stirred up from exhaust escaping.

It might be worth studying up on the SERT to learn how to change settings. That way you can experiment with optimal settings later on. All you need to do is change the zero percent throttle settings up or down in 5% increments. I use the PCV. Hooking up the laptop and changing the settings only takes a minute or two.
 
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