Puzzled

B

~Brittney

New member
I'm new to the forum, but have been riding almost 45 years. Currently 3 bikes in my garage. 2000 Ultra Classic, 2007 Road King Custom, 2010 Ultra Limited. I'd like to sell both the 2000 and 2007, but the 2000 will occasionally die after a hot run. All electrical functions go black. A 30 second rest and it all starts up again, but it's a little hairy to have the engine quit white passing a big rig on the 405. It's been doing this for 10 years, since new. Anyone have similar experiences? The bike has been in the shop a dozen times, changed to a new main circuit several times, lots of puzzled looks and no solution. They can never duplicate the problem.
 
Check and clean/tighten every ground connection you can find, especially those hidden under the fairing. Original battery? Some have defective plates that will short off/on.

Those are about my
 
I am just happy to know that you have a conscience and do not want to sell a bike with faults. Kudos to you!!!!

Ground check again with e multi-meter again is the only thing I can think of unless you have a real good Indy nearby.
 
I too am happy that you have a conscience. Having said that, I'd say the bike is screwed, but I'll gladly take it off your hands for $500
 
The bike has 38K on it. New battery. I meant ECU, main circuit breaker. OC, Palm Springs and Fordyce have all looked at it, no answers. A loose ground connection would make sense but the condition mainly happens after a hot run, then slow speed, as in, freeway for 100 miles, then off to a destination. I can expect it to die before I make it home. It has several times stalled at high speed, hence the concern about selling it. I feel it is heat related, but don't know. All suggestions (other than give it away) are welcome. Thanks guys.
 
Wife's sportster had intermittent problem similar to what you describe. Sometimes when hot, it would die, and sometimes it would just start coughing and have no power. It did this from the day it was purchased new in 2006. Dealer could not figure it out. After rejetting and rebuilding carb and checking for air leaks..... In desperation I put in a new crank position sensor. Problem gone. After a few weeks, I put the old sensor back in. Problem returned. Two years now with the new crank position sensor and never a single problem. I am guessing that the sensor had some kind of issue that was effected by heat, because it only acted up when hot.
 
I had a similar problem on the Sportster... New Ignition Switch solved the problem.... Only ever did it when it was hot and would re-start just fine after a shut-off... I hope you find the Gremllin !! Electrical problems are no fun !!
 
Not saying my problem was the same as yours, but I have 2001 EGC that did the very same thing. Engine just shut down. I had bought it used and it had a PCIII I didn't know it had. It was mounted under left side cover. It had loosed itself from the velcro and slipped down and had been rubbing on the top side of the secondary drive belt. Rubbed a corner off the case and exposed the internal circuit board. When it shut down, it would sometimes restart before I could get over and stop, by downshifting and popping the clutch, other times it wouldn't restart till I got stopped and used the starter to get going again. I had it in the shop twice and they never found the problem either (Fullerton HD). When yours quits do the headlights and other electrics quit too? Mine didn't so I knew it wasn't battery related. I took the PCIII out of the loop and no more problem. Your problem may be related to the electronic fuel managment module, OEM or otherwise. An intermittant short of some kind, internal or a connection. You are definately right about the pucker factor of loosing power at speed in traffic. Investigate the fuel management module, see what you find out. Same symptoms may not always mean same problem, that's what my experience was. Hope this helps.

Nate
 
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