OT: Corkscrew for Charles Shaw wines?

Re: [email protected]

notbob wrote:


Not only that, if it's the device I've seen, it has a crappy cheap spiral
type corkscrew instead of a nice auger type. Shameful since it's supposedly
an expensive toy.


Corkpullers of that type of design usually have the high quality corkscrews
too.

MartyB
 
On Apr 19, 3:22?pm, "Nunya Bidnits" wrote:


Nunya is 0 for 3 here. The double bladed design is most likely to
shove the entire cork into the bottle, leaving cork dust to bob on the
surface of everyone's wine glass. And one cork was in so tight I broke
off a blade. The worm design most reliably gets the cork out -- the
auger (screw-thread-type) I bought by mistake I threw out in disgust
at its uselessness.

The expensive bar-mounted models all use worm spirals.
 
"zxcvbob" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I think the corkscrew "worm" refers to the spiral coil open in the center. I
just discovered this. I think it's a great term. One of the corkscrews on
the internet came with the common foil cutter, with an extra "worm".

We need a better worm.

Kent
 
Re: 82c65123-c8c9-44b3-80a8-5f09e5e33ae2@a21g2000prj.googlegroups.com

spamtrap1888 wrote:


Are you back again? Sounds like you're still irritated about being corrected
on the food safety stuff. Most people just make their comments without silly
crap like 0 for 3.

The double bladed design is most likely to

Not if you do it right and aren't totally clumsy with it. RTFM.


That's a quality issue, your error, not mine.


Then you threw out the better tool.


They also have a massive mechanism with enough force to overcome anything
and aren't generally used on fine wines which may have fragile corks. Those
are properly uncorked at the table.

Thanks for playing.

MartyB
 
"Mark Thorson" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
It's the plastic body of the Screwpull that broke twice.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...=aps&hvadid=3051858461&ref=pd_sl_7nn03msvl4_e
unfortunate, as it's an excellent product. The wire spiral on the worm is
excellent for getting to both dense Charles Shaw corks and for fragile old
corks. The fine wire and the increase diameter of the worm is indispensible
for an old cork. In the link above, note the placement "worm". That should
make your day.

Kent

,no worming till after 6PM
 
On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 22:03:50 -0500, Omelet
wrote:


The best wines I ever had cost me a few pounds of fruit, some sugar, a
little yeast, a few gallons of water, and some of my time waiting.
With commercial wines most of the price is labor, space, equipment,
bottling/labels, transportation, advertising hype, and profits...
whether ten dollars a bottle or five hundred dollars a bottle, the
wine itself is worth no more than 25?/glass. Om, you should try it...
all you need is a cool place and some appropriate fermenting
containers, I used to use those old five gallon glass water cooler
carboys. I rarely used grapes, LI is stone fruit orchard country, I'd
buy bushels of drops for cheap... peach, nectarine, apricot and plum
wines are luscious... apples and pears make fantastic wines.
Carrot wine is good too.
http://www.wine-making-guides.com/carrot_wine.html
 
On 2011-04-17, [email protected] wrote:


Until the cartridge loses more than half its charge, then they're
useless on difficult corks and iffy on easy corks. Been there, wore
out that t-shirt. Too damned expensive for prolonged use unless you
got $$$ to burn.

nb
 
"notbob" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
No 2$CHK! That would be stressful. What do you have to replace it? Recently,
I tried the 3 liter box of Almaden California Chardonnay. It is strikinglly
inferior. There's no fruit.

I was just picking the bottle of Charles Shaw Merlot off our breakfast room
wine rack for tonight's ham, and underneath was my last bottle of 1970
Chateau Latour. Today it's worth about $500.

Kent
,lets hear it for 2$Chuck
 
Omelet wrote:

I don't screw corkscrews completely through the cork, that can cause
bits of cork to break off and fall into the wine but more importantly
there is less chance the entire cork will break apart... if met with a
stubborn cork I can always back off before drilling in a little
further... you know how I like to enter slowly and get a feel for the
territory first before having at it. L'chiam/Clink! ;)
 
On 4/16/2011 11:58 PM, Kent wrote:
Never had a problem with a good quality real metal winged cork screw.

--
Janet Wilder
Way-the-heck-south Texas
Spelling doesn't count. Cooking does.
 
On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 22:09:34 -0500, Omelet
wrote:


NYS wine has generally been awful, except for eisweins -- think Bully
Hill -- until an influx of French winemakers about ten years ago
raised their quality considerably across the board. They now produce
some drinkable, even enjoyable, wine, from makers like Henry of Pelham
and Inniskillin.


Is there a particular Texas wine you'd care to recommend?


Our oldest bottles right now are a few Bordeaux from 1970, and they're
still going strong.

-- Larry
 
On 4/17/2011 11:07 AM, [email protected] wrote:

They look interesting, but, oenophile that I am, I can't see myself
spending more for a cork popper than I do for a bottle of wine. :-)

YMMV

--
Janet Wilder
Way-the-heck-south Texas
Spelling doesn't count. Cooking does.
 
On 2011-04-16, Kent wrote:


I used on for years. Get a real Ah-So, as cheap knockoffs do not have
properly radiused prongs. My brass wing thing is better.


Another tip about 2$CHK. Pull the cork before chilling the wine. A
CS wine cork is twice as hard to pull if the bottle has been chilled.

nb
 
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