Oil Level & Blow By

Oak Tree

New member
I've got a 2010 Ultra Ltd and when they did the 1000 mile service a couple weeks back I installed a Ness Big Sucker.
Was doing some Vtunes with the TTS and noticed oil blow by down the side of the bike. Checked oil and it was above hot mark. I removed a 1/2 quart and brought level down on the dipstick to just above cold level.

Have done a couple thousand miles now and oil still drips to some degree from the AC. Last night I removed more oil and brought the level to exactly 10 hash marks up the stick from the add level which is exactly where it should read for full cold on the jiffy stand.

Installed new fullsac pipe and mufflers and was Vtuning this afternoon. Got on it hard and oil has again sprayed down the side of the bike and there is a puddle of oil in the throttle intake.

Checked oil after this ride and the damn thing is exactly 10 hash marks up from the add mark. WTF?? Since this is hot shouldn't it be a lot closer to full hot level?

What am I missing here? Any suggestions?
 
LOL........I'm glad I'm not the only one.
From what I understand once you overfill it there is oil in the cam chest that can't be pumped back until the oil level is lowered below the return hole. You must have gotten it low enough that it did pump back and raised your level enough to blow out again,I never had this bullshit with anything else .
Another thing I noticed all backing plates aren't so good at putting the mist back into the motor,I have the K&N backing plate with the oval filter that fits under the football and I don't see a drop anymore. Oh another thing,there can still be up to half a quart in the motor after its all drained. Hope this helps.
 
Many have experimented with oil levels ranging from full hot to the "add" mark and still get some misting. Seems most get better results (less blow by) with an oil level less then half way up the stick on a hot measure.

Good luck!
 
I don't see much difference between checking hot or cold. I keep mine on the full mark, takes 4 quarts, like the manual says. I have never seen any evidence of any oil blowing out.
 
I seem to get the blow by no matter what the oil level. I have tried everything from full to a quart low and still get drops on the cam cover. I gave up and just wipe it off frequently.
 
There are two oil pumps in a Harley stacked side by side. The return side is approximate 10% larger the then the pressure side that lubricates the engine. Therefore there can never be too much oil in the engine and even if you filled the reservoir to the top and poured some inside the engine it would not stay in engine and would push out the dip stick. That being said after draining oil and replacing it and the filter (I only do filter ever other time) I put oil up to about 1/2 way on stick and start engine. Check for leaks at drain and filter and shut it off. Add oil to approximate 1/2 way on stick. Get my bike to about 180-200F on dip stick and top off to full with bike level and not on stand. Some newer bike may say on stand so you need to read manual here. What you are seeing if just the one-way vent valves letting enough oil come thru plus the mist setting and running together. With a factory sealed back plate on the air filter it will catch and hold it better then these open back systems. My bike has very little at below 3000 rpm but as soon as I get over 3000 for say 10 miles I will see it. Let it sit for two - three weeks and start it and drive 10 miles and park it and I will actually get a few drips on valve lifter covers. You just took two much out and did not realize it. If it had blown this much it would have been dripping off you rear tire.
Do not fall for these people saying run oil low. Harleys only have so much oil in them and even cutting your oil by 1/2 a dipstick reduces your cooling some how be it very little but I fill you need all the cooling you can get and running the oil level at top of dip stick does not affect blow by and I guarantee they are going to be many who blow me away for saying this.
 
I have never understood the blow-by. I've got a 2006 FLHTC with D&D's and Big Sucker. I've put 50K on it. We rode 2-up on a 6K trip this summer. Kept the oil level on full (hot) and not a drop of blow-by ever. Speeds anywhere from 55 to 80 in all different terrain and all different temps. I previously had a 1996 FLHTC (EVO) and it would blow oil all over my wife's right leg. I had to continually wipe down the right side saddlebag. I know some of them do it but it's a mystery to me....
 
Thanks for the replies and advice.

Guess I'm confused as to why there is a cold and hot check on the dip stick when it really doesn't seem to change either way. Cold half way up stick - Hot half way up stick.

Also, just to clarify, when I say the oil is blown down the side of my bike I mean I've got oil blown on the saddle bags and side of tour pack. If the saddle bags were not there it would have been on my rear wheel.

I hate to think how much of this oil is actually going back through the intake.

Since the dealer did the fluid changes guess I might just drain and refill to confirm how much is actually in the engine.
 
I've got a 2010 Ultra Ltd and when they did the 1000 mile service a couple weeks back I installed a Ness Big Sucker.
Was doing some Vtunes with the TTS and noticed oil blow by down the side of the bike. Checked oil and it was above hot mark. I removed a 1/2 quart and brought level down on the dipstick to just above cold level.

Have done a couple thousand miles now and oil still drips to some degree from the AC. Last night I removed more oil and brought the level to exactly 10 hash marks up the stick from the add level which is exactly where it should read for full cold on the jiffy stand.

Installed new fullsac pipe and mufflers and was Vtuning this afternoon. Got on it hard and oil has again sprayed down the side of the bike and there is a puddle of oil in the throttle intake.

Checked oil after this ride and the damn thing is exactly 10 hash marks up from the add mark. WTF?? Since this is hot shouldn't it be a lot closer to full hot level?

What am I missing here? Any suggestions?[/quote

I have heard of guy's having leaks after installing these backing plates. On the Arlen Ness big sucker, you don't remove the brace like you do with the SE. Also you have to be careful to make sure the o-rings on each side of the backing plate stay in place. I put a little grease on mine.

As for the Engine oil, I have a 2010 also. I do it the same way I did my 08 and 09. I warm the bike to operating temp. Leave it on the jiffy stand and start the oil draining while I remove the filter. I then raise it to a level position with my Jack. I ALWAYS GET MORE OIL OUT WHEN I LEVEL IT ON MY JACK. I replace the drain plugs and torque to spec. Replace the Filter and put 3 1/2 quarts of new oil in. I warm the bike to operating temp again and check it. I always bring it up to the full mark when hot. It usually ends up with about 3.8 quarts. Never had a leak anywhere!!
 
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