No cams - JUST 103" / port & polish

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I hate to predict actual numbers because different dynos and different tuners can come up with different numbers on the same bike.

As far as setting compression, if you shoot for 9.2-9.5 corrected for cams, and a CCP under 200 you will get a bike easily tuned, won't be fighting detonation all the time, and will make good torque right off idle. You also have to be honest with yourself about your riding style. If you're a guy that doesn't like to downshift and likes to roll the throttle on at low revs, you should keep it under 9.2 corrected and a CCP under 190. If you keep the revs higher and are a little more careful about loading up the crank, you can go to 9.5 corrected and 195-200 CCP.

When I talked about revving the motor, and then chopping the throttle, I meant while in gear. Especially with high torque motors, you run the risk of twisting the crank by abruptly shifting the torque loads. Heavier bikes (like touring bikes) carry more risk than lighter bikes. But don't get too wrapped up with worries about twisting your crank. Like I said earlier, 115-120 ft lbs or so is pretty safe even with the pressed cranks.

I know a couple of guys who are old school chopper guys and custom builders. One of them just won't have anything to do with twin cam motors because of the bottom ends, the other one tells me a lot of the horror stories are a bit overblown, and it's mostly the big cube motor builds that have problems.

I've seen a couple of blown bottom ends, and it's not a pretty thing, but for the vast majority of us, it's just not a worry.
 
The upgrade without the cams will net never leveraging the changes you spent money on. The stock cams really do not even support the full capabilities 96 engine as you get it from the factory. Its simply an EPA cam.... While the stock cranks may not be good for really large power gains, you hardly risk twisting a crank because you put in an aftermarket cam in a 103. Frankly, I think we are making a big deal out of an issue that really seldom exists with these mild upgrades. There are thousands of bikes on this site with 103s and performance oriented cams.

I have had SE 211s in my bike since almost new. Frankly I do not baby it. It has almost
30K flawless miles on it. I guess what I am saying, is do not believe everything you hear. In this case I think the evidence will be this claim is simply baseless.
 
Have your tech check the run-out on your crankshaft,this will help in your decision making.I checked mine with only 14 miles on a 2010 st. glide,the run-out was.007 the dealer will do nothing until it is .010 or greater.
 
...always a pleasure.

But I have more questions for all of ye of the upgrade persuasion:

Yes, I've beaten this poor topic to a pulp, but once again, I have an '09 RKC with Stage One and Bub 7 Slip-ons.

My dream build is:1)Torrington Crank Case with Timken upgrade (perhaps uneccessary, I know, but if I had infinite cash flow...)

2)Screamin' Eagle Crank/piston rods or some billet crank/rod setup (same parenthetical statement follows) or trued/pegged/welded stock crank (will definitely do eventually)

3)103" BB with (maybe) high compression pistons

4)Head flowed/ported for max torque/midrange

5) Woods Triple Nickle cams with directional cam followers

6)Not sure on exhaust (I know I want 2-1-2, but who? Bub TDX, etc. I know, personal preferences aside, but diameter even more important, as you will see later in post)

7)30-tooth Andrews pulley/SE Compensator (am I even saying that right, do they go together like that, or am I way off?) Bob Woods told me to do 70-tooth in the rear with 30-tooth, but just sticking with front pulley.

8)The best oil cooler out there (suggestions?)

9)PCV with autotune

If I could, I'd go out and order all this stuff tomorrow, have all the work done, extoll the virtues of my build after I ride my transformed steed, and then shut up about it once and for all.

Money. A limiting factor right now. How much to do my dream build? I don't know, but it's more than I got in my pocket at the moment.

So with an eye toward frugality, that is, bolting in/on items to stock 96" for now that I don't have to toss later, here's what I'm thinking after reading cam and compression posts and such :

1) Drop in Woods 555 cam and directional followers into stock head

2) Get PCV with autotune

3) Stage One intake (good enough for now and future?)

4) Jackpot 1.75" header or some other brand that gets rid of stock header, but uses stock heat shield and slips over BUB 7.

5) Andrews 30-tooth front pulley

I know the cam (so I've just read in another thread), sprocket, and PCV will work for both set-ups, but does anybody have a 103" with 1.75 headers and exhaust or will that simply be too restrictive, especially if I go higher compression (what are we saying, 10.2, 10.5)?

It's all about the torque and midrange for me, and I know backpressure helps make torque, but do I absolutely need 2" or bigger exhaust when I can afford to do dream build?

John
 
"As far as setting compression, if you shoot for 9.2-9.5 corrected for cams, and a CCP under 200 you will get a bike easily tuned, won't be fighting detonation all the time, and will make good torque right off idle. You also have to be honest with yourself about your riding style. If you're a guy that doesn't like to downshift and likes to roll the throttle on at low revs, you should keep it under 9.2 corrected and a CCP under 190. If you keep the revs higher and are a little more careful about loading up the crank, you can go to 9.5 corrected and 195-200 CCP."

I see you offered lower compression numbers to jtomhd. I'm guessing that if I want a hot bike I'd go with the 10.2 that you recommend. But if I'm aiming for all of the advantages you suggest to jtomhd (not fighting detonation, etc.) you would also recommend the 9.2 - 9.5?
 
Boogaloodude, what is the difference? As you can see from my other posts in the last few days, I am contemplating many things, and trying to learn as much as I can.
 
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