No cams - JUST 103" / port & polish

B

BlackLawman

New member
I'm not a mechanic, I have no experience building motors, my opinion is only my opinion...... I did, however, just trade my stock 96 in for a stock 103 police bike...... both electra glides...... I can say that the 103 alone will give you a much faster feeling bike..... might be another option if your trusted guy doesn't want to do cams.
 
I think you'll realize a better and more cost-effective result just swapping cams, but only if you select the right grind. There aren't many that will retain low-end performance, and those that do will likely de-emphasize the top-end, so establish your priorities and do your research. I also disagree with your tech that crank problems are a widespread phenomenon, and you aren't likely to influence that by doing a Stage I or II upgrade. There may be some wisdom in performing crank upgrades with more radical builds, however.
 
The 103 is a good running motor. With a good set of ported heads, stage I air and exhaust, and a good tune, it will probably feel just fine. I've always thought that the 06 and newer heads work well enough, that spending a bunch of money on heads doesn't make sense if you don't also add performance cams. On the other hand, I know a couple of engine builders who say, if they had to choose between cams or proper heads, they'd choose the heads.

The cranks in the TC motors are generally good for 115-120 ft/lbs or so. Much more than that can increase the risk of twisting the crankpin inside the flywheel or possibly grenading the crank bearings. The new cranks are crap, there's no doubt about it. The last of the decent bottom ends was in 02.

As far as a built up 103, it's generally a reasonably safe proposition, especially if you ride responsibly. Don't lug your motor, don't rev it hard to redline, then chop the throttle. If you build a big torque motor, it's especially important not to lug it. The advice not to twist the throttle hard below 2500 in higher gears is very good advice, especially with big torque motors.

Bottom line is, if you go to 103, port the heads, but don't put in cams, you'll net a good running motor, but you're cheating yourself a bit. Set your compression at
 
Harley having come out with 103" motors would not have done so if the result would be "scissored cranks". They also sell up grade kits in their SE race book like the one I am running. My build is the stg III they refer to (with headwork and some other differences) and the kit does not require any crank work. The head work performed on my build increases the flow of the heads and nets more HP. Torque comes from the right cam selection and also what compression pistons you plan on running. I have over 10K miles on my build now and I am the type of rider that likes to play with the power I have built. I highly reccomend a cam change if you plan on doing a 103" build. Just the upgrade in c.i. will not give the results you are looking for. JMO
 
09 Trike with a 103" motor and I need more power. I'm considering bigger cams and was wondering if any one new the size of the stock cam?
I'd like to be able to climb a few hills and handle a little head wind and stay in 6th gear.
 
...but after all the input I've gotten from builders over the phone who agree that the crank is crap and reading and writing posts online ad infinitum, I'm still going forward with a 103 build and forgoing the crank upgrade for now, with high compression pistons, head work, Woods 555 cam, PCV. Not exactly decided on exhaust yet.

I guess it depends on who does the work on the upgrade that may determine how a claim for crank catastophe is handled. I'm still within initial warranty period so my first inclination is to use Harley dealer (about $2,500 to open case to access crank and bearings), which is about $1,000 higher labor for pre-emptive crank/bearing beefing up versus RC Cycles in Bay Area. Either way, they say just getting to the crank and bearings to do the upgrades involves a lot of PITA labor hours.

I don't expect Harley to have to foot the bill for a new crank if I abuse my bike; I just trust that if something fails even if I'm a good boy and "play nice" with my bike that the dealer or indy will have my back.

As far as crank/bearing issue is concerned, it seems the crank should hold up as most posters here contend as long as we're not doing burn-outs or launches. I mean, what kind of numbers should I expect once I dial in the exhaust and fuel management? Is 115TQ/105HP for a 103" about right? If so, I should be able to ride my bike without "walking on eggshells" every time I twist the throttle.

I have a couple of questions: 1) I can see how over-revving or lugging might stress the crank and bearings, but how does revving it up high and then abruptly chopping the throttle add stress? I remember Mark at BC Gerolamy (head porter) telling me to blip the throttle when I down shift just so this very thing doesn't happen. I have a Class A Commercial driver license and as any trucker knows, truck trannys don't have gear synchros, so you have to double clutch shifting up or down and blip the throttle when down shifting. 2) Boogaloodude: you got cut off on the compression part of your last reply. If I do heads and pistons on a 103 and am looking for strong torque and midrange, where should I end up with the compression?

John
 
First, thanks for the reply! Second, don't leave me on the edge of my seat - set the compression at what?
And yes, exactly how I feel! That being that I'd be cheating myself. I mean I really resent the direction that the motor company is going as far as cutting corners at the sake of quality and longevity! I shouldn't have to stress at making choices/sacrifices because the mother ship has decided to forgo choice work. Processing the info that you and others have given me, I feel that yes, there's some truth to what my tech is saying; however, perhaps he's overly cautious. Nevertheless, there is a reason for his concern. Bottom line is that I am not a speed freek, but want the optimum out of my motor with reliability and longevity in mind. Ultimately though, if you have to worry about where your RPM's are before you use heavy throttle, then there are obvious sacrifices that the company has made for the sake of cash.
Looking forward to your compression recommendation and thanks again!
 
Many thanks to all for the replies/info. My understanding from most is that I could probably enjoy the 103" with head work, but I'd constantly question "wow, if this is good, I wonder what it would be with the addition of some good cams?"

I think from all of the posts that I've read on this thread and others, that the risk (twisted crank) of adding cams would be slight if I were to ride my machine like an adult, and keep the power and torque down to 100 or less. However, I for one am resentful of the fact that I might have to ride like an adult! ;-) But really, because of the Harley Davidson "craftsmanship" that this popular upgrade would even have to be reconsidered.

I remember when I bought this machine, how much I loved it (and still do). I was proud of the heritage and truly, for the most part, the "American made". It just felt "heavy duty" and quality made. I was excited to get the 6 speed, of which now I understand there is no more of changing a gear or two. And mine offers 2nd gear slop like that I didn't even experience on the 4 speeds. The compensator problems, wheel bearings, etc. have me a little discouraged. However, if the alternative is to buy a GW, well then my fellow riders, I think I'll just grin and bear it, taking one step at a time. Time will tell. Thanks to all again!

Fitz
 
Sorry, it was late last night when I was posting and I was half asleep. lol

What I was thinking was is you set the compression at 10.2 and go with Woods 555 in a 103, you'll be a happy guy. It will make power everywhere you want it, and have great street manners.

Go up a bit in compression to 10.5 and you can use the Woods 108-44, or SE251, and it will really get after it.
 
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