New Homemade Garage Door Opener

B

BigJetFixemUpper

New member
Just thought I would show my new Garage door opener switch. I had a garage door opener wired to an odometer switch mounted in a blank plate. It worked well, but only opened one door and did not look great. Heard about someone using the powerlocks switch so decided to try it. One more problem, I was adding cruise to my Classic and now would run out of switches. I ended up getting the Screaming Eagle combo Spot / Cruise switch to remedy this. The hardest part was figuring out which three contacts (1 is a common) inside the garage door opener would trigger the doors. Once I did this I ran three wires from inside the case and got the female side of the 3 place plug that came attached to the switch to make it plug and play. The switch is PN# 71764-07 (approx $25) and the matching plug is 73103-96BK ($1.50) you will also need three pins to go into the housing ($1 each). Here are the before and after pics from Single door to Multi-door set up. The opener is a standard 3 button, velcro'd up inside the lower fairing cap. (forgot to take pics before I buttoned it up)
 
I did a bit of a different twist, I put in a timer relay on my high beam and set it for 1 second, when I pull into my driveway, I flash my high beam and up the door goes. When the scoot is out of the garage, no one can open the garage unless the headlight is powered.
 
I looked at the momentary switches for the High Beam...Could put two on with different delays (1 flash vs 2 flashes) to operate 2 doors...This seemed to be the easiest way for me to operate 2 doors...Economically the Power Locks Switch is cheap enough, but that combo Spot Cruise Switch was expensive.
 
Damn, Bennie, we must've both bought the same Radio Shack switch! Here's mine, with my unit probably wired like yours and wire-tied to the left horizontal fairing bracket. This opener has been in use since 1998, first on my old RK, and I just rigged some wires to replace the button on the unit. A 9V alkaline battery lasts about 5 yrs.
BTW, the second ACC switch (2nd from left) is the PCV map switch.
 
Yep. Radio Shack $2 switch and homes original 9v door opener. Since it was 9v I didn't want to try and run additional transformer to hook up to the battery. I have to remove my fairing when I need to change the battery, but lets face it those batteries last years.
 
Very nice ! Here's mine......

After getting tired of fumbling for the button on my garage door opener I thought it would be a great idea to install the opener inside the batwing and hardwire it to an external switch.

This mod will only work on FL models that do not have the factory audio system installed but have the switches installed in the switch housings. My bike is an FLHT models (Electra glide Standard) as it does not come with the factory installed audio system.

A few things to note is that this is not a permanent modification. There are no holes to drill, no wires to cut or splice into, you can return the bike back to stock with no evidence of the mod being done and the remote is out of the weather and doesn't need to be weatherproofed. You also never have to take your hands off the bars to open your garage door!







Instead of using the high beam switch I decided to use the r/h audio Mode switch for the garage door opener because since my bike is not equipped with a radio it was not being used for anything. Here is a step by step primer on how I went about accomplishing this.

Take your remote and remove the battery. Open up the case and remove the circuit board. Locate the switch and solder a wire to each side of the switch. I used an old set of automotive speaker wire connectors that had covered spade connectors already attached. I used the wires that had the small spade connectors.





Cut a notch in the case for the wires to exit the remote.





Reassemble the remote and install the battery.






Place an old pair of socks over the spotlights to protect them and your batwing fairing. Remove the batwing outer fairing along with the windshield.

Locate the connector that goes to the R/H switch housing






Unclip the connector from the horizontal brace and disconnect the connector plug from its mate

Thanks to Hawg08 for providing me the following pics of the schematics!






Locate the wires to the Mode switch. I will use the “Down” position of the switch so locate the brown/white and gray/white wires






Using a small pair of pliers or in my case a set of hemostats grip the locking plate and gently pull it out until it stops. Do not remove






Locate the pin you want to pull out and insert a small drill bit or metal rod in the appropriate hole and push in until you hear the little pop. Then pull the pin out from the back of the connector. Do this for both wires









I installed a piece of heat shrink over the exposed portion of the pins







Reconnect the plug and reattach it to the brace

Push the pins up inside the spade connectors for the remote wires

Using Velcro I attached the remote with the hole for the antenna facing fwd, to the top of the plastic storage box in the fairing






Secure wires with tie wraps. Press the mode button down to test your installation



Reinstall batwing and go for a ride!
 
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