My GODDAMNED car. Life is a piece of shit.

Gaurav S

New member
Here are some pictures. The last one is from underneath. I'll take better ones when I have some daylight. I couldn't really get down there. My bewbs wouldn't fit. :happysad: I can do it when it's on lifts. After I get it to start, that is.

There is no stretch on my end.

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If I remember correctly, we're lookin' for the source of leaking oil. In the last pic, on what I'm thinking (although I'm probably wrong) is a stress bracket between the engine and transaxle, there was a bunch of oil hanging on a bolt.

If you could get three or four more pics of the underside, that would be better. If you have a jack, simply jack the car up high enough to put some supports underneath.

One pic from the front angle, of the underside. And one from each side, also of the underside. Try to get the whole area under the hood (besides being on the bottom side of the car).
 
First off, it doesn't start anymore. We think that it's the ignition switch.

The oil is leaking. Paul said that there's a huge crack in the drain pan and he can see the gasket.

There is anti-freeze leaking, but we don't know why, yet.

It's really loud...usually it's something with the exhaust, right? Could it also be that I didn't have any oil in it when I got home?



I'll try. I'll have to borrow a jack from someone. :happysad:
 
Ok, here goes.

The battery terminal in one pic looks like shit, get it cleaned up and reattach it. Then try to start it again. If it seems like it has good power, then just won't crank, thats the problem. You have to pull over 400 amps to start the car, and if theres a short on the power wire, it will give good indications and just not crank right, crank like the battery is dying, or not turn at all.

The engine looks really good from the top. Theres a nice layer of dirt that I would be looking for to make sure the previous oner didn't wash the engine off to hide anything.

CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUG WIRES!!!!!!!!

They look to be about 1 1/2 years old. In fact, Cap, plugs, rotor, and new wires will prolly do wonders. Fuel filter and air filter is my next suggestion.

The oil I see in the pic looks like a standard "old engine" leak. If you can get some pics from behine the motor block, I might be able to get a better idea as to what is going on.

The hoses that I can see have all been replaced (except for the smaller vacuum hoses, those are fine) I would worrie a little about the heater hoses. Also the heater core might be leaking as well, but if it is (keep in mind that the heater core is INSIDE your car, not the engine bay) it should have a shield that makes it leak outside the car. Look for a leak on the passenger side of the car coming from the back of the engine bay.


As for a jack, you should have the spare tire jack that will life the car up enough to get it on lifts.
 
There's possibly a jack in the car. Those jacks are usually peices of shit, but they do work.

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It doesn't start...does the ignition switch do anything? When you turn it to the run position, does anything work, such as radio, wipers, heater fan? Do the lights still turn on? Any of the lights (headlights, corner lights, interior lights) should still work without the key on.

If the first things don't work with the key on, but the others (lights) still work, then it very well could be the ignition. If nothing works, either the battery is dead, disconnected, or there's a poor connection. I'd give more details here, but I don't have much time so if you could check out that stuff and give the results, we can go from there.

(I just glanced through the pictures, and the positive connector on your battery is clean, which is good. It appears to be tight, but I can't really tell; just try twisting the connector on the post: it shouldn't turn at all. Also check the negative post.)

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There's a huge crack in the drain pan...you mean the oilpan? That's not good at all. If you could get a pic of the crack, that would help. Also, being able to see the gasket isn't a problem as you should be able to see the edge of it. Now, if it's actually coming out of place, that's not good! A pic of that "problem" would be handy also.

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It's leaking antifreeze...don't know from where, just know that there's antifreeze dripping on the ground? Is it just dripping, or running out? Is it at one end of the engine, or a side? Is it from the radiator? If possible, pics would help.

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Don't worry about it being loud, for now...that's most likely the least of your worries. Does it just sound like a loud car, or does it "rattle", "bang", or "knock"?

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See what you can do to check these things out, and answer as best you can. I can't say I'll be back soon, but I'll be around.
 
The key doesn't turn at all. My brother-in-law told me that it looked like someone had ghetto-rigged it, then it broke when it got really cold.



It's just dripping. I'm not sure where, though. Like I said, he wasn't really able to get UNDER the car because the ignition switch broke RIGHT AFTER he got the ramps, lol.



No, there is no engine knock. I was given very strict orders NOT to buy one with a knock. The loud noise is mainly while it's in third and fourth gear. It sounds almost like something is rubbing on a tire. The transmission seems good though.

I'm going to buy an ignition switch this weekend, so we can get it up on the ramps. I'll take pictures then.



Spark plug wires are pretty expensive. Will running the car with old ones for a month, do substantial damage to the engine?

How much does a good engine cleaning cost? Cleaning and replacing the battery terminal? Cap and rotor?

The heater isn't leaking at all from what I can see.
 
Umm, I have no idea where your getting your prices from, but what I suggested you get replaced should run about 90 tops.

Don't bother getting the engine cleaned. I was refering to how sometimes if an engine is leaking bad, the owner will clean the engine bay to hide it.

If the heater core is leaking, you will get antifreeze coming from under the car on the passenger side. I was making this point as you said it was leaking coolent and you didn't know where from.
 
30-35 for a good set. Don't spend less than that, and don't get the ones with the lifetime replacement. I change my plugs, wires, cap and rotor once a year. Air filter based on how it looks. I have a K&N, so I don't have to replace it, I just clean it, but about every 6 months. I most;y change the PCV valve once a year as well cause I like knocking everything out all at the same time.
 
OK no offense lee, but in my opinion I'd try and get the thing running before starting to put money into smaller stuff such as plug wires and such. Again in my opinion, one year old is not bad for wires, unless they're cheap. I've had vehicles on which I'm sure the last time the wires were changed was ten years previous!


mdot: the loud noise...are you saying it gets louder as you speed up? It "matches" ground speed? Could be stuck brakes if it sounds like it's coming from a wheel. Do the brakes make noise when you slow down quickly?

There is a chance it could still be the transmission. Very hard to say without actually being there or hearing it.

Have fun with the ignition! Just make sure there's oil in it before you start it up again. Let us know how things go and/or if/when you get pictures. Oh, and besides a little bit tomorrow afternoon, I probably won't be back until Monday. So have a good weekend!
 
The wires in that pic look like shit. I would not be suprised if that makes a difference after she gets those changed. And it was a suggestion based on exp.

And you ran a car on wires for ten years???

Your insane.
 
I feel your pain MDot, I am on day 3 of no car. The computer broke. They usually cost about a grand new but I am getting a used one so I am at the whim of the guy bringing it. It will be about 500 (labor, part, diagnostic) so that makes 1000 I have spent in less than two months of my 2002 car:sad:
 
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