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my 1996 ford escort will not go into 1st or reverse?
- Thread starter Alex
- Start date
If it's refusing to go into 1st/reverse and making a grinding noise, that could be because of a stuck clutch plate. Another clue to this would be if it will go in when the engine isn't running. Ford Escorts of that era use a cable, not hydraulics to operate the clutch. Other than that, the problem could be due to slack/loose bolts in the gear lever's linkage.
Clutches usually stick when not used because the rear crankshaft seal is leaking, causing a layer of oil to build up on the clutch plate/flywheel face. How badly it has stuck will determine how you can release it.
There are many ways that you can try to do this, some are a little dangerous. You can try wedging the clutch pedal down, then starting the car in first gear (it will start moving straight away) and driving it around. You have to change gear very carefully, in the manner of double de-clutching, but with no clutch - just by synchronising the engine speed so as not to grind the gears. The shock of the gear change will often cause the clutch to come unstuck. You can also try fighting the brakes against the engine for added force. Rather than continual braking, quick bursts of braking are more likely to work and less likely to cause damage. Another version of this is to jack up a driven wheel, then do the same, running up and down the gears. Of course you need to be aware that if the car falls off of the jack that it will lurch forwards. On occasion, I've freed them this way by deliberately releasing the jack but this is also dangerous.
Failing those two methods, a third way is to remove the clutch cover plate from the bell housing, then slacken all the pressure plates bolts. You may then be able to slip a knife carefully between the flywheel and the clutch plate, depending on the shape of the parts and amount of access to it. Don't damage the clutch plate by forcing anything. Some clutches are recessed into the flywheel and as a result cannot be freed in this way.
Other than that, you need to remove the gear box. Whilst everything is apart, replace the rear crank seal and examine the clutch's condition. This is the proper way to do it, of course.
The first suggestions are obvious bodges but often work. At your own risk, of course.
Clutches usually stick when not used because the rear crankshaft seal is leaking, causing a layer of oil to build up on the clutch plate/flywheel face. How badly it has stuck will determine how you can release it.
There are many ways that you can try to do this, some are a little dangerous. You can try wedging the clutch pedal down, then starting the car in first gear (it will start moving straight away) and driving it around. You have to change gear very carefully, in the manner of double de-clutching, but with no clutch - just by synchronising the engine speed so as not to grind the gears. The shock of the gear change will often cause the clutch to come unstuck. You can also try fighting the brakes against the engine for added force. Rather than continual braking, quick bursts of braking are more likely to work and less likely to cause damage. Another version of this is to jack up a driven wheel, then do the same, running up and down the gears. Of course you need to be aware that if the car falls off of the jack that it will lurch forwards. On occasion, I've freed them this way by deliberately releasing the jack but this is also dangerous.
Failing those two methods, a third way is to remove the clutch cover plate from the bell housing, then slacken all the pressure plates bolts. You may then be able to slip a knife carefully between the flywheel and the clutch plate, depending on the shape of the parts and amount of access to it. Don't damage the clutch plate by forcing anything. Some clutches are recessed into the flywheel and as a result cannot be freed in this way.
Other than that, you need to remove the gear box. Whilst everything is apart, replace the rear crank seal and examine the clutch's condition. This is the proper way to do it, of course.
The first suggestions are obvious bodges but often work. At your own risk, of course.