LOL. The fact you're talking as if you'd use it in a fight is proof enough you're not even mature enough to own one. Now, lemme teach you a few things.
The fact you don't know what tang is is extremely depressing. The tang is how far the blade sinks into the hilt before it cuts off. A sword which is fully combat-ready would be full-tang, as it entrenches the blade in order to absorb the shock of clashes and strikes. The replica Master Sword you posted, I would presume from the price that it is either a half-tang or a half-push tang. Half-tang means the blade is entrenched halfway into the hilt and held in place by either being encapsulated, or with a rat-tail joint (Having a screw/bolt in the bottom to lock it in place). Half-push is pretty much the same, but held in a slightly different fashion. Neither of these are useful if you're going to be using it for anything above a display piece.
Now, to continue with that Master Sword, it's 440 stainless steel, yes. BUT. What matters is what type. You see, there are various blade types within that main component. We know what it's made of, but not how. How many folds of steel are used in the blade? Is it just steel, or is it mixed with carbon or damascus? (Unlikely for a budget product--these are usually reserved for the more expensive items). In addition, there's no mention of how it was made--The best products are hand-tempered and are usually in excess of three digits in price. Then you have to take into account the other components.
By the way, the handle and hilt are the same thing. Or rather.
The hilt is composed of three parts. The grip, the pommel, and the guard. The guard will differ in fashion depending on the type of sword you're looking at, but will usually feature either a crossguard or quillions, in addition to the Oriental tsuba.
I have a martial arts license, so I know what I'm talking about. And whilst you're correct that the Master Sword above is a European-style weapon, it is still a replica. Ersatz, or in layman's terms fake. Fake weapons don't need a license, but any real piece of equipment beyond a certain length does require vetting first. Not to mention, you must be 18 at least, or perhaps 21 in the US, I do not know.