M50 Pullback Kits

T

Trekker34

New member
I have a stock M50 2007, I have a problem with the handlebars. They are too forward I need them back toward me 2 to 3 " more.
Has anyone found a way to move or space the bars closer? without all the cables being changed. I have a new Mustang seat which moves me back further in the seat.
My dealer want alot to modify my bike, I would just like to buy a set of handlebars with 3" more of pullback

Thanks
Tiff
 
There's a good reason the dealer "wanted a lot". To get the bars back 3 inches, you would probably need all new cables.......regardless of who does it......and they can be expensive.

Have a look at the recent threads here regarding the handle bar riser, now back in production.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/f...iser-spacer-blocks-ready-ship.html#post580934

It might help more than you think. Have you "rotated" the stock ones already to get them as far back as possible ??

Some kind of small pad to push you farther forward in the seat might be the best solution. I don't have an M but am intimately familiar with the problems of short arms and legs. :roll:
 
I have the risers from CooleyM50 on order and will post review after installed and tested. Others I've read online say they make a HUGE difference - but I don't know how they're dimensions compare to mine: I'm about 5'5" with a 29-30" inseam; arm measurement from pit to center of palm looks to be about 21".

Which Mustang seat do you have? I'm thinking of getting a seat that will push me forward - but I haven't had the stock seat long enough to say it sucks regarding comfort...plus with the bar thing I'm all the way at the front of the seat.

Another option is to find a good upholstery/trim shop. They might be able to pad your seat so it pushes forward a bit. I might try this with the stock before investing in another seat. I've had mechanics recommend that I try this before lowering a bike or if a seat feels too wide (especially towards the tank). I know they can shave a seat down - just don't know if they can "add" to it - if that's what's needed to push us forward.

Anybody have tips for removing the handlebar bolt covers without scratching the crap out of them? I'd like to try to rotate the bars, but each cloth I've tried to wrap around a flathead isn't enough to prevent scratches and dents in the caps or the existing risers.
 
The only one they make for the Shadow VLX 600. Don't know how it compares to the different models for other bikes. May not match any of them exactly.

If those are push-on plastic caps, you can get replacements for about $.50 apiece.
 
Tiff, You might try our spacer blocks first.
Real cheap compared to new risers and a whole lot easy work.
You might want to put two sets on.
Not sure how it will work with cables but the wires and hoses should be fine.
You could let me know what one set does and then go from there.
I may in the future offer a 1.5" tall block but it would be more costly.
I'm just not perfectly sure you can go even another .5" taller on the spacer blocks and not have to change out things.

Give me a call to discuss

217-621-1158 cell
Ken
 
Hey Tiff, what kind of seat do you have on your M50. I'm 6'9" and im riding around on the stock seat with stock control placement. It's actually comfortable enough for me but it would be more comfortable to stretch out and I think it just looks better.
 
Tiff - For what it's worth as you search for bars:

Just did 72 miles with 1" spacers from CooleyM50. I'm just under 5'6" with 29-30" inseam (stock foot peg position is fine for me). Arm length from pitt to palm center is about 21". The spacers definitely help but I still get a lot of strain in my trapezius muscles (http://www.idigfitness.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/muscle_diagram.jpg).

I think that I have figured out that I need the bar to come back far enough so that the heel of my hand is in line with the center of the gas cap. If my palm lined up with the cap that might be even better. Tested this theory while riding and at stop lights and I could definitely feel the strain come off those muscles when I pulled my arm back. It gave me a nice bend in the elbow. It almost seems that if the stock bars were bent in 1-2" that would do it.

I don't think there's any way I can get that type of pullback and not have the cables changed. So I'm starting to resign myself to paying a couple hundred bucks in cables and labor to get the job done. In the long run, it will be worth it!
 
:roll:Well thanks for all the info, has anyone here tried to put C50 bars on a M50. I have read elsewhere that they work but the bars have to be cut off 3" each side as they are steer horn type not a sports bar and you have to change the risers to C50 too!
Right now the bars are 3" too forward, long rides are a pain in my shoulders.
Thank goodness for Mustang seats, my M50 was long distance unrideable without it!

Thanks
Tiff:roll:
 
Some people have cut the bars, but it is not necessary. PM me with you email and I can send you pix that someone sent me of c50 bars on m50. I've never heard that risers need to be changed, but I can't remember about the cables. I'm not sure I want bars as wide as the c50.

Maybe I'll go to a dealer and measure them against my M; try them out again. The chart on the Flanders site does not list the correct width for m50 bars...they list 31" and I measure 35" on my M...that's end to end. Now center of grip to center of grip might be closer to 31".
 
I've got an M50 rider who is going to try stacking two of our spacer blocks to get a 2" rise without having to change out the hoses, cables or wires.
If it works well we can begin making these taller perhaps but not until I know for sure.
I am concerned with binding on the cables.
Any idea out there how much more space you can get above our spacer blocks?
Thanks
Ken
 
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