Lowering blocks, yes or no?

S

Spider-manf4n4t1c

New member
The tire to fender clearance is different with the 09'-11' to the earlier touring models.
The 09'- present have more clearance (+1").
The 1" blocks work great with 12" shocks on the new frame.
This is my setup . . . Pingel lowering blocks.
 
I tired a set of Ness blocks @ 1.5" drop on my 08 Road King, they were relatively inexpensive but bottomed out frequently when riding two up. I sold them and installed a lower and narrower seat which worked well.
 
I tried the cheap way first with blocks had problems with the tire hitting in the top of the fender and I only weigh 190lbs and ride 1 up, change to a set of short Progressive air shocks and no more problems, rides better to boot.
 
This is kind of a mixed bag of results. I have the Road6Customs on my Ultra with the standard 13" ultra shock. I run 7 to 10 psi with the shock in the 1" lower position and never bottom out. When I go 2 up with a full load I up the shock pressure to 25 to 30 psi. I guess you need to play with your air pressure for the best ride. When I first got this bike I installed the 12" street glide shock and rode that way for about 10,000 miles and didn't like the ride. Now with one inch more travel the ride is much improved over the shorter shocks and no lowering bracket.

Tim
 
From looking at this site blocks the way to go I guess. With short shocks laden or unladen seat height doesn't change much, because shocks are stiff and travel gap is almost nothing. Stock shocks lowers the seat height when laden with 180lbs almost 1 3/4 " .
 
I installed my Road 6 custom lowering kit today. The install was easy and I put it in the second hole for the 2" drop. I measured the distance at the center of the rear fender unladen both before and after and it dropped mine about 1 1/2" (12 1/2" to 11 1/2"). I pumped the air shocks up to just above 30psi. I took it for a ride over a bumpey road and railroad tracks and never bottomed out. I'm 6'2" and 205 lbs and seldom have the tour pak on. Truth is it doesn't seem that drastic of a change as the bike felt and handled the same as before the install. I plan to keep an eye on everything just to be sure there are no problems but so far I like it.
 
Steel? Why does it have to be steel? I'm running TJ Products lowering blocks that were machined from 50,000 psi(tensil,whatever) strength aircraft aluminum...... I'm glad the aircraft industry don't mind using alum.
 
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