Kenmore dryer runs, doesn't heat....?

T

tulachek

New member
...I can see something sparking behind the drum. How do I troubleshoot this?
Model 417.88042700. I'm used to more basic models where the only thing that goes wrong is a $20 heating element, but I can't even find the element on this thing. The sparking makes me think it's not the element.

I have 240V AC at the plug, and while the exhaust duct needs cleaning, I'm getting good airflow. Unplugged it to make sure, and still the air coming out of the dryer remains cool.

This thing is only 2 years old, I hate to replace it so soon, but I figure parts and labor for a professional repair would cost about the same or more than a new dryer, so if I could fix it myself...

I have an associates degree in electronics, I maintained computer and large printer systems for years, and I do a lot of my own repairs around the house, so I'm think I'm capable of medium-sized repairs, I just don't know how to troubleshoot a dryer beyond what I've listed above.
 
There is a thermal safety coupling that is located under the top of the dryer. Looks like a chunk of cermaic with to electrical pongs.

Odds are that it has failed.. that is generally what happens.

It costs about $3 to $5 at an appliance repair shop, but before you run out and buy one, open up the lid of the dryer (take the top off after unplugging it.. its pretty easy.. a couple of screws and some gentle prying.

Look into the drum area and identify the sparking.. maybe the wire has simpy come off and you have an occasional short.

It could also be the crystal igniter trying to do its job but the gas is not being turned on because of the safety coupling. Lets assume it is just the igniter ..

Find the coupling and use a piece of wire to jumper the two ends, thus bypassing the coupling. Do not let the wire touch the sides of the dryer or the spinning drum..

Close the lid and try the dryer.. if it heats up you found the problem.. take the old part and use it to buy a new one. You do not need to go to sears, its a pretty common part.

.
 
It does sound like the element broke, it sparks whenever it hit the sides but there's still enough resistance left to keep from blowing the fuse. Your old dryer must've had the type of element the was at the back of the drum, in a circle about as big as the drum. Am I right? In newer Kenmores the heater element is in sort of a box, it's just folded up so ten feet of wire fits into a one foot long box. Unplug the dryer, lay it on its front, and take the back off. You'll see the air intake, it draws air in and through the element. Once you see the element it's self explanatory how to change it. If you can't get it at your local Sears store try partsdirect.com (but you'll want to order a spare)
You might kick yourself when you see how easy it is, I did
 
It would seem you're down to one simple question. Call a repair Tech., or buy new. Having fixed many different home appliances etc., one needs to take into consideration time spent on the repair. I spent 4 to 5 hours on my washer, ordered the new parts, installed. It worked! But only for another day or so. Called a Tech. and discovered in 5 min what the true underlying problem was. Is it worth your time? And then perhaps your repair doesn't take.
When it comes to heating appliances, I usually call in help if I want to salvage the machine. Potential fire hazards make it unadvisable for a diy on those items. You start a fire - you're out. Tech. starts a fire and insurance is on them!
Look for a coupon in the back of you phone book for a reduced service call. Ask for a free estimate. Cost's you 50 to 80 to find out if the machine is repairable or even worth the effort. Time is money. Time better spent giving someone else the pain of the repair.
 
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