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myspiderungoliant

New member
Just want to confirm for myself how bad it was. For sometime I was getting that slow weak crank before finally cranking over and starting. Suspected the battery, but wasn
 
I think the only way you would have screwed yourself is if you left the dealership without the new battery and ended up stranded somewhere. I have not priced a battery for a while, however, $168 dollars is better than trying to push start a touring bike.

Last time I needed a battery think I paid around $130 but that was two years ago.

Think of it this way - you paid for peace of mind and the bike fires right up now
 
I had a battery replaced in march of this year thought I would go the cheap way and got one at Advanced Auto 85 bucks then I had to add the acid and let them charge it for 24 hours all was good,went to fire up my bike yesterday and nothing tested everything out,(not thinking that a battery 6 months old could be the problem) sure enough went to the same store I bought the battery at the put a test on it and tell me battery needs to be replaced,ok no problem,then they tell me the battery only has a 6 month warrany on it and if I want a new one it will be another $85.00,so after a few choice words I walk out,call harley they want $116 plus tax not bad for a quality battery but instead i found a good quality with a 2 year warranty for 125 bucks at the indy shop,put it in and works great,moral of the story is you get what you pay for
 
Nope you didn't screw yourself. If you paid $168 for the battery and it last four years, the cost of the battery is $42/year. If you got a new battery for $40 less, then you lost $10/year. No big deal.
 
Not feeling too bad so far, thanks. I did not know how old the old battery was until I found it etched with 10/2005, so it lasted 5 years making me think that there is something being said for the Harley battery.
 
You may have since you did not bother to check terminals. You do not mention how old battery is. Mine was a few years old and ever now and then I would set a slow crank for just a second until first cylinder hit and helped. I assumed battery was getting weak and pulled seat and realized battery terminal was not loose but also not tight. Charged it and carried it to auto zone and they load tested it for the cold crank amp spec I gave them. Showed OK and I put it back in and put the tender on it. Next day it was green light. Lot of trouble? Yes but I try to stay green as possible and no longer use my bike for long trips so at worst a phone call will get me a jump from the wife or son. However since its three years old I will pull it about ever 6 months and get the CCA check at AutoZone. Its free and when I need one will probably use Walmart's battery if its a gel like the one in there. If it need tubes I will do some more research. Saw a few users on the Forum who said it was OK.
 
I think you made the wisest decision.

I was recently out on the new bike 2010 ultra. Returned home and had an after thought to go check the trip milage, so out to the garage and flip the switch over to acc. checked fuel , remaining milage, trip 1 and 2 and total milage. I didn't plug into the battery tender and the next night I hear the siren go off.(siren has back up power) The siren sounded because the battery was totally dead. When I checked the milage I left the switch in acc mode. There was a CD in the player (volume muted).
The maintainer would not charge it after two days . I searched prices for a replacement battery and found about 150 average for a HD battery and about 110 for the non HD battery.
ultimately, I removed the battery and placed it on the fast charger for an hour, then switched to slow charge overnight, checked voltage next morning and had 13.5 volts.
I got lucky the battery bounced back and works perfect.

I now double check the ignition sw. and make sure I plug into the battery tender after each ride.
Going with the recommended battery is wise. I didn't research the cold cranking amps, output of the charging system yada yada and so on but there is way more to consider than getting the cheapest price.

A battery maintainer is worth investing in if you don't already use one.
The ebay route could be worth it but I find myself asking ,do I have the time and patients . Like what if ....what if some one ships a bum battery , now I have to fool around shipping it back , again yada yada
 
I started out on Harley's back in 96 with a Fat Boy - battery shorted out at 1.5 years - on top of Tioga Pass - thank God I had Road America - this was a Sunday evening - got towed home to Turlock for free - 2000 bought a WG - This is the year I started using a Battery Tender (EVERYTIME) I parked the bike in the garage - Sold the WG in 04 and it had the same battery - still good. Feb 04 I bought a EG - again, battery Tender plugged in Everytime I parked it. Spring of 09 I was getting ready to do my first Coast to Coast (6,000 + miles) the 04 battery was still strong and good - decided after 5 years, I better not take a chance, so I broke down and bought a new HD battery - that was 1 year 5 months ago and all is still good.

Moral of this story - I am sold on the fact that a Battery Tender will prolong the life of a HD battery ....
 
The H-D batteries are excellent. They last 5 or 6 yrs frequently.

The times I've seen complaints on this forum ref batteries it's almost always aftermarket batteries that are part of the equation.

To save $40 bucks it's just not worth it IMHO. Get a good reliable battery and give no more thought about it.
 
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