Cam chains are endless, meaning there is no master link you can remove. You'll have to split the crankcases to remove it properly. I don't know if your engine has a roller bearing crank or plain bearings. If the former, you'd have to have the engine removed and upside down, remove the lower half of the crankcase and lift the crankshaft out, pulling the pistons out with it. I think the bottom of the sleeves are tapered, which would allow you to re-install the pistons from the bottom. Usually you slip the cylinder block over the pistons, but you'd just be doing the opposite. If it has plain bearings, you'd have to remove the connecting rod caps and remove the crankshaft, leaving the pistons inside the cylinders.
You're fortunate you don't have a working battery. With the cam chain tensioner off, turning the engine over is a good way to bend a valve with a piston. Incidentally, why do you want to remove the cam chain? Cam chains hardly ever wear out and usually the guides or idler sprockets will go before the chain does. My KZ1000 had over 100,000 miles on it and when I measured the cam chain, it was still well within wear limits. The rubber idlers and chain guide was another story though.
If your engine has a roller chain, I guess you could grind off the pins or cut the chain thread the new one on as you remove the old one and use an appropriate master link if they make them that small, but I could just see a worn guide popping the retainer off when the engine happened to rotate backwards just a bit. Then you're headed for a catostrophy when you start it up. If it has a link plate chain, that isn't possible to do.
