The information you've received thus far is good. You'll need a set of 1/2 inch drive shallow well metric sockets and a 16" breaker bar or a 16" ratchet. The bolts inside the spindle are hardened, usually rusted somewhat and they have *Blue loctite in the bolt threads from the factory. That's why you'll need the extra leverage of a 16" ratchet or a less expensive braker bar. Sears and Auto Zone's best sockets work fine for this type of work.
After removing the brake caliper it's necessary to remove the brake caliper bracket before removing the brake rotors. Make sure you check and lubricate the brake slider pins with synthetic brake grease, avalable at any auto parts store. It may be necessary to hammer the inside of the brake rotor outward with a heavy ball pein hammer of a short lightweight maul. Turn the rotor as you hammer it. It's rusted on the end of the drive axles.
**It's important to use an electric drill with a stiff hardware store wire brush mounted on a spindle to clean the inside surface of the rotor which was rusted on the axle flange. Use the same wire brush to clean off the ends of the axles. If you have a shop nearby with a brake lathe the rotors should be re-surfeaced. If new rotors are necessary, find an AC-Delco dealer or your local Chevrolet parts counter. Auto parts stores nowadays sell cheap junk off-shore brake rotors which aren't worth your time and energy installing. autopartswarehouse.com has EBC slotted and dimpled rotors that have been cast in Great Britain which are exceptional parts.
Off-shore (China) cast iron is terrible. It'll rust corrode and warp easily. You'll also notice large pits in the surfaces as the brake pads wear the surfaces.
What ever brake rotors you decide to go with paint a thin coat of *Never Seize on the inside surface that mates to the axles. The rotors will never stick on the ends of the axles again. Select Ceramic brake pads also. Bendix CT.3 @ autopartswarehouse.com or Advanse Auto. AC-Delco are the two brands I'd suggest.