Help - floorboard extender bolt broke

J

JayA

New member
They didn't charge me for the install, only labor for everthing they did which took about 3 hrs for 300 bucks total to include the cost of a fork baffle i had installed (it helps keep some of the wind from coming up over the tank). i watched them almost the whole time. it took them a good 2.5 hrs to get the bolt out so i figure it cost me about $ 200 bucks for lesson learned. I got a little worried when they brought out the torch and i think it became a personal/professional thing to not let it get the best of them.
So overall i don' think its too bad in my book.

cass
 
I've bought Floor Board Extenders from both venders on here with no problems.
Of course I don't "bust a gut" if a bolt stops turning. I can tell you've learned something from this.
To quote an old shade tree mechanic "Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment."

I'm glad all is fine now. Except for your wallet, it's a tad bit lighter now.
 
I am getting ready to install the F B extenders too, and it looks like I had better inspect the threads real well first and maybe even do to a tap chaser first.
Thanks for heads up...
 
If your using the black bolts, you should not have any issues. Now if your using chrome, that's another story.

On the black bolts, use some blue loc-tite and torque them to 40 ft/lbs.
 
I just wanted to address a few issues regarding chrome bolts.

The situation that brought this on was caused by a thread hole that had a build up of factory thread lock. I have seen it myself when I did my first install of the 09 Touring. I didn’t chase the thread but did feel the extra resistance, especially towards the end because of the excess thread lock accumulating on the bolt.
You can take any bolt and thread it into a tight hole, but if you are threading it quickly and have a significant amount of resistance that bolt will snap. Combining the heat (caused by friction) and enough torque this will happen, we have all done it. It didn’t mean that something was wrong with the bolt, it meant that it was installed incorrectly.

As for my fasteners. I use chrome plated grade 8 bolts because they provide the best protection from corrosion and they’re aesthetically pleasing (grade 9 is not recommended).
I have done environment testing on Chrome, CAD, Black Zinc and the Socket Cap standard finish (Black Oxide). I found (and it is well known) that the least amount of corrosion protection is with Black Oxide (black bolts).
Even the threaded area is subject to corrosion on black oxide bolts. This is why they are not used on the BLACKED OUT bikes that come from the factory. They use Black Zinc and this is why when a customer of mine says they need black hardware I send black zinc and not off the shelf grade 8. I even black zinc my lock washers.

I would recommend to anyone who is working on their own motorcycle to:

- Take the time to clean each bolt before installing and use a 243 blue loctite when applicable (242 is not oil resistant).

- NEVER force a bolt when threading. If you have to force a bolt then take the time to figure out what’s wrong.

- Never use Stainless to Stainless, Aluminum to Aluminum or Chrome to Chrome without using an Anti-seize first and also know that Loctite actually does have anti-seize properties.

I do have pictures of what a black oxide bolt looks like when mounted on the underside of a bike and when left out with full exposure. For the mounted bolt, with no water exposure there are some signs of corrosion after about 10 months. The one that was left outside (full exposure) with the morning dew and afternoon sun showed corrosion after just a few weeks. I’m not saying that using a black oxide bolt is the worse thing you can do but I am saying that there is a reason for what we do and that reason is to provide the very best product and value that we can offer.

FYI, out of the over 3000 kits that we have sold we have never had a bolt break while in use. You are talking about 4 grade 8 bolts holding the weight of one person. We did have one bend in a collision though.

You guys might also be interest to know that upon request we do offer CAD PLATED or BLACK ZINC PLATED bolts at no extra charge. Just include this in your notes when ordering.

Here is an interesting Tech Tip on motorcycle fasteners… http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

As for CASS - we have had several email conversations regarding this (at every step). He is being taken care of, mostly because this guy really had a bad day over this. As for details, I think that is something that he should share.

Thanks for listening guys,
Tom
HarleyGoodies
626-253-2022
 
cass,

glad you're back on the road. sorry it cost you so much. this should be a lesson for all of us, if it doesn't go in easy, don't force it.
 
A sponsor can't do much better than that.

If a bolt slows down, gets harder, and you aren't at the end of the bolt, something is wrong. Rust , locktite, something in the bolt hole, it isn't going to get better. Run a tap in it and clean it up, or use a shorter bolt. Remember, the thickness of the bolt should be compared to the depth of the actual hole. If you have that much, you are OK. Anything longer is overkill, and isn't going to help you. The long bolts are used when fastening thick parts together.
 
Back
Top