Getting the bike to track right...

P

phone

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Guys,

I need a bit of advice. I continue to have the same problem on my bikes. My 1098 did it and my S4RS is doing the same. I have asked many, and tried all, but the problem remains. Maybe someone here can tell me where the problem is...

When I power out of a corner, or pulling hard in a long turn, my bikes get a sort of wobble / sway in it. Difficult to explain, but it feels like a tank slapper that is waiting to happen. I can keep it in control, with throttle adjustment, but my bikes just doesnt seem to corner like it is on rails.

I am smooth on the throttle, and body positioning / transition out of the corner is smooth, when powering out of the corner.
On long turns, guys behind me, have actually asked me why my bike is swaying like that.

I have adjusted the suspension in all directions, but just cant seem to make it go away. Maybe I am doing something wrong here?

Or could it be my riding style? If it is, then what can I focus on to improve this?

Or body weight? Am I too light for the power, and not getting the bike to squat enough? I weight 68 without gear.

The 1098 had a steering dampner, and the S4RS doesnt have one, but both bikes respond the same.

Any advice appreciated

Thanks
 
there are a multitude of factors at play here, and without knowing how you've set up your bikes it'a all pure conjecture.

My guess is, since it's happening on both bikes, it may well be more rider-instigated than the bikes themselves.

Try relaxing your arms on the bars (avoid the vice-like 'death grip'!). In any curve, the steering needs freedom to 'wiggle' somewhat, to compensate for the forks travelling up and down. Holding on too tightly will stop the steering from doing what it needs to do.

Have a look at this rider on the 848 launch (note the subtle movement of the top tripple clamp as he powers out of corners):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GykeObk8bNU

jdw
 
I dropped the forks through the tripple clamps, by 5mm. Got quicker steering, but didnt solve it.

Does dropping the front give a similiar effect as raising the rear? I cant raise the rear too much, because I am already on my toes when seated. I am only 1.58, think its 5'4 about.

How much should I raise it by?
 
If you "dropped the forks" (through the triple clamps) you should get slower steering by virtue of increased rake/trail...?!

Did you mean you lowered the triple clamp on the forks (the top of the fork legs poke through higher)?? - if so then yes you will quicken the steering, but also add instability to cornering ability of your bike.....this would compound your problem.

jdw
 
No. When you're in a turn the suspension is loaded, then when you get on the throttle the rear squats more causing the front to push wide making it hard to finish the turn. Obviously there are a myriad of chassis and suspension changes that can affect your problem but from what you're telling us and the fact that you have the rear ride height all the way down i think this will help the issue. I'd try raising the ride height adjuster about 6mm (mine is 174mm eye to eye) and see how that works for you.
 
I think what he is talking about is his rear squatting like Ten-6 said which I also call a bucking bronco. Even the base TTX needs to sprung and revalved appropriately for good riders, plus if you have the wrong spring in compression damping and rebound damping are still not going to solve the problem. My suspension guru up here in Canada, who has worked Internationally got my spring rate correct while also working his magic with damping and I have no more bucking bronco and tire wear was noticeably better.
 
If you are not running any aftermarket triples, on the 1098/848 you can compromise turn in and get better hold through the turns by putting the forks flush with the triple as a temporary fix. That being said the rear ride height adjuster is not long enough to get the rear where you want. I have done this this year successfully as I have won races as well as the novice series, but these bikes are nowhere near correct, hence why I will have triples and maybe the rocker for next year but the rocker is not essential. I jumped on my friends 2007 r6 and could not believe how easy it was to ride eventhough it was setup for a 160lb rider. I think it is frustrating to buy a bike we like and have to go beyond what jap bikes need to get setup right.
 
i would suggest that there are two possible scenarios:
(a) rider input (the most common problem)
(b) suspension

rider input is basically holding onto the bars too tight thus not allowing the bike to "go around the corner". Solution is learn how to remove the input from your hands into the bars which, in simple terms, means supporting your body weight through your legs and bum and not through your hands.

suspension: get the suspension adjusted by an expert to suit your riding style and the riding that you do (touring two up, public roads, race track etc). The suspension your bike comes with is designed to suit all but in reality a 120 kg rider on a Sunday afternoon cruise requires a totally different suspension set up to that of a 60 kg rider doing a track day. This applies to both the settings and the suspensions components (springs rating, fork oil, fluid volumes etc). It should also be remembered that the suspension settings (and there are numerous components and variations available) need to work as a unit (applies to both front and rear together) and when one component isn't set properly then this can effect the whole kit-kaboodle.

If the problems are on public roads and more noticable the harder you ride then the problem is most likely rider input. Solution is spend money on rider training which will stay with you for the rest of your life as opposed to the bike which we tend to upgrade on a semi regular basis.

For rider training I'd recommend the Californian Superbike School.
 
The 1098 as delivered is short on trail. Lowering the front (moving forks up through the triples) will shorten the trail even more. You might want to invest in some offset triples. Mine (on the 1098) have an offset of 25mm.
 
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