engine rebouild 88 or 95 ?

W

Winkler

New member
I know the 95 will give me more power, but I don't need it. The only thing I see happening is that I'll loose fuel mileage. Everyone wants me to buy new barrells, cams, EFI and others to the tune of $2,500. I'm thinking 10 over pistons and rings with a bore job. help me out
 
If your happy with the performance you have and you're planning on keeping your bike for the long term, there is no reason to bump it up. If you plan on selling it, you may get more offers with the mods you mentioned.
 
I went to a 95" and didn't lose any gas mileage at all. I love having the extra passing power on the highway that the stock bike just doesn't have.
 
No replacement for displacement. It's a better value to replace the jugs and pistons with 95"s then to mess with cams and such. A 95 stage one is as reliable and economic as an 88.
 
Stop listening to the dollar mongers. Its the same price to go 95" as it is to do an 88" rebuild.

It will cost you about the same to bore .010 over as it will to bore .125 over
If you don't have someone locally that will do it, there are several forum members that are sponsors that will do it for a very good price and quick turn around. If you don't hear from one of them shortly, post back here as you can't send pms and I will recommend one to you. The cost of pistons for the 88" or the 95" will be exactly the same. Buy them from Chicago Harley or Zanottis. You can do the big bore for the same price as the 88"

22851-99A $140+shipping from Chicago Harley
At one time, these kits came with gaskets, I am not sure if that is the case anymore, so you are gonna need gaskets.
You might as well get the cometic .030 headgasket for the slight bump in compression it gives you.
The is a respected forum member that will bore your cylinders for $85 and you pay shipping both ways.
They say they will turn them around in 1 day.

This isn't going to be a powerhouse or bragging rights motor for the dyno thread, but why give up the cubic inches if the cost is the same.

I will be doing it in the next month or so. If you can wait, I will likely photo my work and document it in a thread. You can do a top end yourself with basic hand tools if you sub out the machine work. It is not rocket science.

To really take advantage of the new cubic inches a cam swap is in order, but not mandatory. Now, the cam swap isn't so easy. Yes you can do it yourself, some specialty tools really help make it happen. I'd suggest you pay to have the cams swapped.

If you have EFI, you will need to get it tuned, sorry can't help you there, but there is plenty of info here on the forum.
 
Hope I didn't twist your arm

If you had told me you could only afford to go cam or big bore, I'd say go cam. But you said you needed to rebuild the top end.

I'm at that point myself. If you beat me to it, please post your results/impressions.
 
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