DYNO Numbers for Baggers???

VALORIS

New member
New here but I think I may have some relavent info.. When I get my charts "digitized" i"ll post them.
First thing is concerning 2007 and I think 2008 are the same. Proven fact that due to primary drive changes, these bikes will lose approx. 8 - 10hp at the rear wheel. Next, the relationship of torque to horsepower is a constant - hp = torque x rpm / 5250. You will notice that ALL charts cross at 5250, it's a formula.
Peak numbers mean little as they are at different rpm's. AFR is nearly as irrelevant as it is at Wide Open Throttle, 10% at most of your motors life is run there. AFR at idle and partial throttle positions is more important so make sure to quiz your dyno man.

I have had 2 bikes built using all SE parts when possible and yes I said ALL SE parts.
2004 Heritage - 95", stock heads reworked locally, forged flattop pistons, 251 cams, power commander, stock pipes with SE II mufflers
91 hp and 95 lbs. - exhaust would jump the numbers but it's my wifes bike and she likes it this way.

2007 Ultra - 103", SE Performance heads (cleaned up castings), 251 cams, forged flattops, adj. pushrods, 10.5 to 1 comp., SE Race Tuner.
Stock pipes with SuperTrapp SE slipons - 90 hp and 103 lbs.
Stock pipes with "Y-pipe" modification and SuperTrapp SE slipons- 95 hp and 107 lbs.
Rinehart True Duals (stepped headers) - 104 hp and 114 lbs.

Very respectable considering the 2007 drive loss issues. Any more power would require bigger throttle body and injectors.
All three combinations were dyno tuned. My guy still uses 4th gear S.A.E.. More shops are using 5th gear STD resulting in slightly higher numbers as well.

Conclusion-
Rineharts woke this big boy up without much of a "Rinehart torque dip".
And my wife will likely still kick my butt.

Ultra007
 
I have a 2003 FLHTCU-I with Head-Quarters 98" HPV heads with HG00-39 Gear drive cams, Vance&Hines true duals, SE II slip on mufflers, SE 6 Speed Trany, High Flow AC, S.E.R.T. 117 HP with 114 FT LBS TQ. 47.5 MPG @ 65 MPH. I have over 15 hours of tuning time. If you get your bike back from a dyno tune in 4-5 hours you have a basic map. Most dyno tuners fail to look @ the ignition table and see what it has to offer. A .25 degree in ignition can make a differance. I have written the MAP myself so the cost was very low. Most individuals won't spend that kind of money to have a tech sped 15 + hours dyno time with some dyno rates @ 60-100 dollars per hour. The results in performance and fuel ecconomey are phenominal if done correctly. I have heard complaints about gear drive whine!!! If installed correctly and you boost oil pressure to run 55 psi with 20 psi @idle engine temp and noise will be a noticable differance. The gears that must be used have to have made in USA stamped on them and gear clearance must be checked and set. If you use a gear set that is not stamped USA you will have a very noticable whine. A gear drive set up is not just a bolt in one time and go. Time must be taken to have gear clearance correct. Good luck with riders useing S.E.R.T. It is a great compliment to any engine build if tuned to its potential.
 
I have the same set up as you TJ but Ididn't have minedynoed. I wonder how close my numbers are to yours?? It runs great, not sure if I'll have it dynoed or not??
It would be interestingto see your numbers before they dynoed it after the mods were done.
 
1995 Electra Glide
89" Ultima Stroker kit
Crane Hi4e ignition
Crane Cam
Six Speed
PeaceMaker Pipes
Head work


HP 78
Torque 79
I'll try to scan the sheet and get it uploaded.
 
My dyno numbers.




BDD51D6A25964A49BB560B270C9525E3.jpg
 
2007 Street Glide

113 Cu. inch kit installed by HD
Boarzilla 2 into 1 (considering change to Fat Cats)
264 SE cam
SE hi flo filter
CNC Ported Heads

110 h/p 110 torque

Any ideas how to gain h/p and torque and stay under warranty
 
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