leVel8 the Earth Worm
New member
thanks for that- ill need it one day
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DIY Valve Adjustment
- Thread starter leVel8 the Earth Worm
- Start date
Just a couple notes for those who are doing valve adjustments on testastrettas:
You'll notice that there are two holes drilled in the heads next to the valves. These are the oil return holes. You WILL plug these with 3 inch pieces of plastic gas line to prevent dropped half rings falling into them and being lost forever. Why 3 inch long? So you don't forget to remove them.
BEFORE YOU START:
Order a closer shim measuring tool from Mike at EMS. This is needed to fit in the closer shim to allow measurement. Without it you're going nowhere. Measuring the opener shims requires no tool other than a micrometer.
Another tip is to use absolutely no sealer on the cam seals or end caps. Sealer will act as a lubricant allowing the seals to pop out. *Thanks Mr. Dealer for causing me grief a few years ago. Use the slightest amount of sealer only on the area of the cam caps adjacent to the seals. Pickup a tube of Hondabond 4 before you start the project. Don't mix up the ex/int cam caps as the caps are assembled to the head at the factory then line bored. If you do confuse them, the caps and the head have corresponding numbers. (did that once)
Once every clearance is measured, get your shims from Mike G at EMS.
*Note that the project could take you a week as you'll likely need shims. Measure each valve clearance, remove the shims, measure them and calculate the difference needed in thickness to get the valves within spec.
Also note that on Strettas you can run the closers much tighter than factory specs. I set the closers at .002"
Should you guys need it I can take piccys of the tools needed and post them up.
You'll notice that there are two holes drilled in the heads next to the valves. These are the oil return holes. You WILL plug these with 3 inch pieces of plastic gas line to prevent dropped half rings falling into them and being lost forever. Why 3 inch long? So you don't forget to remove them.
BEFORE YOU START:
Order a closer shim measuring tool from Mike at EMS. This is needed to fit in the closer shim to allow measurement. Without it you're going nowhere. Measuring the opener shims requires no tool other than a micrometer.
Another tip is to use absolutely no sealer on the cam seals or end caps. Sealer will act as a lubricant allowing the seals to pop out. *Thanks Mr. Dealer for causing me grief a few years ago. Use the slightest amount of sealer only on the area of the cam caps adjacent to the seals. Pickup a tube of Hondabond 4 before you start the project. Don't mix up the ex/int cam caps as the caps are assembled to the head at the factory then line bored. If you do confuse them, the caps and the head have corresponding numbers. (did that once)
Once every clearance is measured, get your shims from Mike G at EMS.
*Note that the project could take you a week as you'll likely need shims. Measure each valve clearance, remove the shims, measure them and calculate the difference needed in thickness to get the valves within spec.
Also note that on Strettas you can run the closers much tighter than factory specs. I set the closers at .002"
Should you guys need it I can take piccys of the tools needed and post them up.
I'd venture that if there was a warranty claim and they figured out you did internal work and not by a licensed dealer they'd flag it and you're toastarola.
But they'd have to prove it which can be difficult. In this case if the valves are /were adjusted correctly technically you did nothing wrong.
Don't quote me but IIRC warranty laws have fine print stating that it's the manufacturers responsibility to keep the product running for the duration of the warranty. Look at all the posts complaining that DNA won't warranty something. A couple well placed calls seems to get it fixed. This of course bars acts of gross negligence by the owner. Like you ran it out of oil, put diesel fuel in it etc.
But they'd have to prove it which can be difficult. In this case if the valves are /were adjusted correctly technically you did nothing wrong.
Don't quote me but IIRC warranty laws have fine print stating that it's the manufacturers responsibility to keep the product running for the duration of the warranty. Look at all the posts complaining that DNA won't warranty something. A couple well placed calls seems to get it fixed. This of course bars acts of gross negligence by the owner. Like you ran it out of oil, put diesel fuel in it etc.
Discounicorn
New member
It would be great if you could post up as much information or pictures of this process and tools required. Does the timing belt need to come off to check clearances? to replace shims?
I think a lot of us would love to do this ourselves just need someone who knows what they are doing to guide us. Thanks!
I think a lot of us would love to do this ourselves just need someone who knows what they are doing to guide us. Thanks!
So we have to reset our cambelt tension, which is another 'kettle of fish'. I have been looking into the belt tension issue (having set belt tension by feel on 2-valves since 1980..). To set the tension to resonate at 110 Hz is a bit of an issue. Of course there is a factory tool, or there is the Aussie (cheap) way.
I stress that I haven't actually done this yet - I am about to do my (36,000 km) valve service for the first time. The bike has only recently run out of warranty.. This belt tension thing has been written up on Ducati ms forum.
I have downloaded an Audio Frequency Meter, and have only to buy a "uni-directional microphone" to suit my PC.
I am eager to know what were the "mistakes" the previous posters made. The hose-in-the-hole sounds like a good idea, and obviously we need to mark everything as we pull it down - cam wheel position (none on there from stock, and anyway I have Ergal pulleys) and camshaft bearing caps.
I will post back here later, but I am off to Phillip Is. for ride-days, and then have 3 weeks in the States, so it won't be immediate. I have my shim kit from Mike at EMS, and 36 years experience of doing (mainly 2-valve) valve clearances. I'll let you all know how I went...
I stress that I haven't actually done this yet - I am about to do my (36,000 km) valve service for the first time. The bike has only recently run out of warranty.. This belt tension thing has been written up on Ducati ms forum.
I have downloaded an Audio Frequency Meter, and have only to buy a "uni-directional microphone" to suit my PC.
I am eager to know what were the "mistakes" the previous posters made. The hose-in-the-hole sounds like a good idea, and obviously we need to mark everything as we pull it down - cam wheel position (none on there from stock, and anyway I have Ergal pulleys) and camshaft bearing caps.
I will post back here later, but I am off to Phillip Is. for ride-days, and then have 3 weeks in the States, so it won't be immediate. I have my shim kit from Mike at EMS, and 36 years experience of doing (mainly 2-valve) valve clearances. I'll let you all know how I went...
Ace_Killington
New member
Where do you live? I've been maintaining Italian, German and Japanese vehicles for years. I might be able to help you out.
Although, as of last Sat, I have a vintage Alfa that now needs a water pump and complete cooling system R&R, so time might be tight
Although, as of last Sat, I have a vintage Alfa that now needs a water pump and complete cooling system R&R, so time might be tight
guitarplayer180
New member
Guys, all valve shims are avaliable at veetwo.com.au, individually or kits (2,3 or 4 valve)
we have it all in Aussie, Ducati wise.
we have it all in Aussie, Ducati wise.