"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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eliebellie

New member
I overheard a conversation with our mechanical guru at a chapter night yesterday. A guy had a problem with a siezed pinch bolt on his Norton fork leg, just couldnt shift it whatever he tried. He was told to touch it with a Mig welder, apparently the current breaks up the corrosion and it will just tap out. Also works on broken cylinder studs.

Another tip he was told by an old Vincent rider was about cleaning carbs, forget the cleaning sprays etc.., just stick the carb in a pan of distilled water and boil it up, preferably outside, this should clean off the gum and deposits without any harm to gaskets or seals.

Thought I would pass this on, might be useful to somebody.

Regards, Roger.
 
Hi, everyone - just bought a 2006 Electra Glide. Fully decked out by the previous owner, but still a lot to do so I thought I'd pass on my first mod (it's my first Harley.) I had some credit at Ikea so I bought these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50119407?query=501.194.07&filterBean=se.ikea.ms.search.beans.IrwSearchFilterBean%40726f1353&SEARCH_FILTER_0=eNqVU01v00AQHQxtQQ1CDRUV4kalXkC2hHrLpW2qoqAAEa44JKeNM7gL%252FmJ3nTQ9IH4BNyTED%252BAE%250AEkicOdh%252FjPGuk8ZJ26iO5djz3rzZnTeb%252Fcx%252FwYoU8ESizT8gs0NpS2TCO7H7yCJpt8TI1d9HPFAo%250ADij4Nvucfcv%252F5L%252F38i%252B%252BBY%252B6sPFOg%252Fue4kNsxkEsulCfjb3CEUo1R%252BwI7mEXtqqxeJB66nicEHLf%250AIIdcsn6Ag1J4sxqdSM%252BRS%252FGH89EZ%252BS2z0Qm2349T1aIedOFBFTlIJY9QygWg6aIY6jqbVeCIhTwY%250A06Kq4dYAGanUq9EXcV8uUDviooLl%252BmUPVr2iG1KB02tLdArvnFA6hu5o75ypd60oQmEMbLThrulJ%250A84Ql9KfAvq7AeilQrEBBvf2eDZkTsMh3XCV45BOlZijGnI%252FwCW5O07QzZWhjEpraUgLl9LgYoKdM%250A4RIpx8Wl0lSqw3weMcXjqKropv0mU%252BjHYlwAFgG%252BiNPEbOcNyjRQCnaX7%252Fz5fFaxOaHfZDNOI1K5%250AZxqQKh44L1nSOE1gct2gH92pMDYtOWKzXd4ZZX9H%252Bb9B9v3MAjCSdE6fXkckzn8Mtnfzr9s1C6wu%250ArDJ9xNqwMmRBajpNwgqgeF2%252F9CGL5x1DoiU8W7qEhZ5NumHBrR7UQhqcwlYyjeZ356L51b08px2%252F%250AbhR5h5gwoUKM1JV55zSdtxbSKeU0hvD40hTD0PTboTuWCsOr%252BZpC%252FNNEX%252F8BWOHUkQ%253D%253D
(if the link doesn't work search for Dioder Light Strip, part 501.194.07. A 4-pack costs $50. These can be multi-colored but they also have just white.

They are meant for household current but there's a transformer that brings it down to 12v DC. I unsoldered the wire from that box and just ran it to my battery with an inline fuse. I then mounted one light just inside the Tour-Pak below the lock, another one on the lid. I put the other two underneath the TP along the sides. The control was mounted on the inside of the TP up front.

Multi-purpose: now I have lights for the TP and lights for the saddle bags. Or just static lights for fun (they look great.)
 
Here's a picture of them and a e-Bay link to someone selling them. They only want $10 w/shipping for 25 but I got them at Menards for about a buck each. I imagine most Home Improvement or hardware stores have them

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25-5-16-18-Extruded-U-Nuts-GM-1494253-/400061068155?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d257f737b
 
Does it work on the fuel doors that come from the factory? I just wanted clarification as the one in the accessory book (PN53842-OOC) says it can be opened with any barrel key.

Surely the factory ones can be secured; otherwise what's the use?
 
Its a good feature ! Mostly nobody knows, so the thief will bypass your bike to find one without a lock and in a pinch, if you loose your key or leave home without a key, you can still get into the tank to fill it without screwdrivering it open. (I guess that's what the original thought was) OR . . . all our tanks locks came from some other factory, built on a friday
 
dont know if tinnerman is a company or what the deal is but I was taught a long time ago that this thing is known as a tinnerman clip hope this helps
 
I wanted a way to listen to tunes from my iPhone and not have it exposed or mounted on the bar. I used to just put it in the lower fairing compartment, but that wasn't the best or dryest solution.

So I bought 9 ft of aux cable, a 90 degree connector and a few beers and got busy.

I ran the cable from the furthest corner of the tourpac, thru the hole for the other cables & wires, under the seat, under the tank dash and out the front to the bikes frame. Then up into the fairing, where after taking the radio out, I pulled just enough of the cable thru the radio mounting hole to be able to plug it into the 90 degree fitting and then into the aux port of the radio. Re-mount the radio being sure to get as good a seal as possible and you're good to go.

A few other tips......
-I put a piece of heat shrink tubing over the connection between the cable end and the 90 degree fitting to keep them tight and protected from water
- Zip ties are your buddy. Use them wherever you have to to keep the cable neatly bundled with the existing wiring
- once the cable is pulled into the fairing, check and re-check to make sure you have enough slack in the cable when turning in either direction. More is better.
- At some point i'll re-run the cable under the tank itself instead of the tank dash.
- To keep the connection tight and waterproof, I added a piece of heat shrink tubing to the connection between the 90 degree fitting and the aux cable plug.
 
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