"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

M

mel<3

New member
Creepshow, where did you get the spikes to plug the holes in the rear frame rails after you removed the bar?
wheelspin
 
Here's my Garage Door Remote (left of ignition switch) and my Black Magic LED Remote (right of ignition switch). I had a little Heavy Duty Velcro left over from the PCV and Autotune install and decided to put it to good use.

I can remove and throw in saddlebags or take'em with me if I need to. And they won't fall off...no way...velcro is too strong.
 
For the garage door opener I ordered the lock switch that locks and unlocks the bags on an electraglide. It is a momentary switch that goes both ways. It fits in the left side of the console by the ignition switch and will look totally factory. I will have forward to open my left door and down to open the right door. I will do a pictoral when the switch arrives so you guys can see it.

Mark
 
I realize this post is 5 months old but...I ride an '07 RG (Axtell 107, HTCC SE Ported Heads, RRArms, T Man 590 cam, +++++...I decided on the Zippers ThunderMax with the Auto Tune mod. Really nice interface, $$$$, great support from the Zippers tech support. Many base maps & lots of areas to modity. You probably have one by now - if so which one did you go with? The Daytona Twin Tech was also on my short list.
 
I wanted integrate my garage door opener on my bike so that it was easy to use and look factory installed. I started by looking for a momentary switch that would fit in the lower dash filler. I had 2 empty slots on my 2009 StreetGlide. I went to Doc's Harley Davidson in Kirkwood Missouri and Chris knew jsut what would work, a bag lock switch part# 71764-07. I ordered 1 for myself and another for a buddy. I started by taking out the ignition switch, using a 7/8" wrench to take off the the ignition support, and then removing the position plate. Took off the 2 side screws and the filler came right off. I took it to the workshop and removed the screws for the block off plates. I then took my new switch and cut the plug off. With a DVOM I determined the red and blue wires had continuity when the lock button was pressed. I tinned the wires and then took the cover off my garage door opener. With the DVOM I again determined which points on the circuit board had continuity when the door opener button was pushed. I then soldered the wires to those points. I then cut 2 grooves for the wires. The switch was installed in the bracket and screwed back in the filler. I then used velcro to attach the door opener to the filler panel checking that there was no interferance with the forks. I then put it all back together. Took me 20 minutes and it looks factory and woorks great.
 
For those of you with primary inspection ports and no automatic tensioner, here's a quick way to measure your primary chain deflection without any special tools. Take a piece of masking tape, mark a scale of 1/8" gradations on it, and stick it above your inspection port. Now take a socket breaker bar and attack a universal and a socket. Put masking tape on it (see pic) and draw an index mark. Stick the socket in the port and hold it gently against the chain. Note where your index mark falls on the scale you drew on the tape above the inspection port. Now lift until the chain is fully deflected and count how many eights you deflected the chain.
 
I did the garage door opener mod and tucked the transmitter in next to the battery. works great in the garage, but not so good outside. I think the battery is interfering with the signal. Probably will try to relocate it to see if i get better results.
 
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