"DIY MODS" and TRICKS to SAVE $$$$$$

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Orla:)

New member
When I first started riding Harleys always knew I wanted to hot rod them.Over the years have ground up built a lot of them.Today it is very easy to save many thousands of dollars doing as much as you can.Parts for Harleys seem to be everywhere.Of course you have to want to save a buck or two and know where you can do it.
 
I didn't try a direct-connect to the bike's 12V for the reasons you gave, fearing it would fry the cheap circuit board on the remote. Instead, I just retained the 9V battery inside the remote, then re-wired the button to another momentary switch on the dash. Now I just push the switch on the dash and the garage door opens. I use a Radio Shack #275-644. It's rated for 125VAC but it works fine for 12VDC, and so far water hasn't affected it.

I installed the remote first on my old RK under the right side cover, now inside the fairing on the SG. Since 1998 I've changed the 9V battery in the remote only once, and that time only after about five years as a precaution, so the battery going dead has never been an issue for me. I would change it every few years at an opportune time when you have easy access to the remote, but I've taken it for granted so long I will face a dead battery one of these days.

For those cases when a remote isn't available I rigged up a high-security switch (SPST on-off type) near the garage door. If necessary I can insert the barrel key, which I have on all my key chains, and open the door. It's a very simple wiring procedure, connecting to the existing push-button switch in your house in parallel.
 
Don't know if you've thought about this before but a thief can just pry your switch off the wall and touch the wires together to get in. A wireless keypad remote is much more secure...just a thought.
 
I keep my garage remote in one of the pockets of my fairing pouches. Open flap and push the button. Nothing has to re-wired. Simple, easy.
 
The way I have it mounted it would be an ordeal to pry off the wall from the outside, but I understand your concern about that, as if someone wants to pry it out they will figure out a way. They might also use an axe to chop thru the garage wall, actually, but either method is brazen in a neighborhood like this one. Also, it isn't apparent that this switch opens the door, as few garage doors have this entry method installed. Perhaps a better idea is to mount it in a less-conspicuous location, like out of sight on the side of the garage.

The wireless keypad is a good idea, but I wonder if there are any waterproof keypads available.
 
I keep a door opener just inside the top-front lid on my left bag. Twist a bit, open the latch, slide 'yer hand inside, hit the button, drive in. Locked up and out of sight otherwise.

If it means anything, the iPass (tollway pass) is on inside top-front right bag. And no, it doesn't register on high-way speed tolls (where I tend to put it in the shield bag) but works well below around 30MPH...

All hail industrial-strength Velcro.
 
I don't know if anyone has posted this tip yet, but it is worth reading.
I have an Electraglide with the locking gas cap cover with the barrel key type lock. If you ever go off without your key and need gas your screwed. I keep a spare key I had for a freezer lock in my saddlebag and it opens the gas cap but it doesn't work in the start switch so I don't have to worry about leaving it in the saddlebag.
Never have to worry about getting to a gas station and not being able to get gas again.

Merry Christmas Y'all
 
I put heal-toe shifter ends, on outside edge of floorboards, to hang my heals over while cruising. Legs got tired and cramped on highway pegs, on crash bars. The relaxed ride on my FLHTCI is improved for my longer legs.
 
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