Chateaubriand ideas

"Mort" wrote in message
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I've made beurre blanc many times in the past, with white wine, red wine,
beef deglazing, etc. Beurre blanc means taking a concentrated small volume
of liquid and beating small cubes of cold butter into it at a temp. of
110-120F. The blanc means white butter. Beurre Rouges would mean red butter.
There is no such thing.

Kent
 
M. JL Esq. wrote:

That's not a Beurre-Rouge. Certainly not as it's known today. When you
order a Beurre-Rouge in France (or anywhere) you'll be served a red wine
reduction emulsified with butter.

How to Make Beurre Rouge
http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Make-Beurre-Rouge-215137906

Let me ask you Escoffier worshipers a question. Where do you go to find
recipes (and definitions) that were developed after that fine work was
published in the year 1907 ? Or are you under the impression the entire
culinary world came to a stop a hundred years ago?

--
Mort
 
"sf" wrote in message
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Sauce B?arnaise goes very well with filet. It's very, very rich. You just
need a small amount. We used to make it frequently when cholesterol wasn't
an issue.
In this recipe, however, she says "1/4 cup champagne or 1/4 cup vinegar"??
I'd search out a better recipe. There are lots.
 
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
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Paul, I, and my wife, have cooked a lot, for many years. Now that I'm
retired that occupies most of the day for both of us.
I have an idea for a Chateaubriand like yours that I'm going to try.

Brown it in a roasting pan over high heat. Remove from heat and rest it.
Thoroughly deglaze the pan with wine. Pour that off and save for sauce as
has been discussed in chef Eric Ripert's recipe. Then put browned meat into
a one gallon double ziploc bag with very small amount of the deglazing
liquid. Suck all the air out of the ziploc bag and seal. The polyethylene
should firmly cover the meat and liquid. There should be no air. Then the
bagged meat goes into a water bath at about 150F, and sits there until the
meat temp is about 130F. I'm going to use a ceramic crockpot on warm, which
hits about 150F. This all should give you a good char, with edge to edge
rare meat, with muscle breakdown because of the slow cooking.

As you probably well know this is the rage in restaurants these days, and is
called sous vide, or "under vacuum". By doing the above, a lot of money is
saved on equipment you're only going to periodically use. I had a good talk
today with an engineering person at the Johnson Co., makers of Ziploc. They
say ziploc will tolerate safely this type of cooking without breakdown of
the polyethylene, as long as you don't cook above 235F, where it breaks
down. Even when and if it breaks down, it doesn't create a health hazard,
only overcooked dry meat.

To answer your cooking question, we've always been very interested in food
and have cooked in earnest for many years. I have several times bought 100lb
of veal and beef trimmings to make brown stock, then reduced it to
espagnole, and to demiglace.

That alone, obviously, doesn't make you a "chef". However we've traveled and
dined throughout France, the rest of Europe. and Asia. We've managed to dine
in about 15 Michelin 3 star restaurants. At that time all Michelin
Restaurants were in France, save for one in Belgium. When you get home, we
have somewhat naively tried to duplicate what we ate overseas. We have about
300 cookbooks to read while trying to get to sleep and in the kitchen while
hovering over the stove.

We both love to cook. Obviously you do too. Regardless of what you read into
my rhetoric, I greatly enjoy this NG and learn from it. Cooking is all about
common sense and trying to do something better that what's on paper.

Cheers,

Kent
 
Mort wrote:

Page 33 of Le guide Culinaire?

Red Colouring Butter

"Remove any of the remaining flesh and particles from the outside and
inside of any shellfish shells; dry the shells in a slow oven then pound
them until fine.

Add and mix in an equal quantity of butter, place this mixture in a bain
marie pot and allow it to melt stirring frequently. Pass through a
muslin held over a basin of ice cold water and when solidified place
the resultant butter in a cloth and squeeze to remove the water.

Note: if shellfish carcasses are not available to prepare this butter,
paprika butter can be used instead. In any event, it is inadvisable to
use artificial colourings fo the final colouring of sauces."

I don't understand where the water came from to squeeze out but other
wise it seems easy enough.
--
JL
 
"Christine Dabney" wrote in message
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Christine, look at #4 in Ripert's recipe:
"4. While the tenderloin is roasting, finish the sauce by gradually whisking
the cold butter into the warm sauce until it is fully emulsified. Strain the
sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a small saucepan. Season the sauce to
taste with salt and pepper; keep warm."

He whisks cold lumps of butter into his reduced wine/shallot stock, and then
strains. He can't be whisking more butter into a sauce he's already created.
He has to be whisking into his wine reduction and then straining.

Kent
 
On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 18:06:54 -0700, "Kent"
wrote:



Have you tried this? I don't think it would be horrible. Until you
try it and then say it is horrible, then I will be inclined to go with
the judgement of Eric Ripert.

Eric Ripert is not known for horrible food..he has one of the few 4
star restaurants in this country. One of his teachers was Joel
Robuchon..who is considered by some folks, "the chef of the century".

Christine




--
http://nightstirrings.blogspot.com
 
On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 23:29:23 -0700, "Kent"
wrote:


The blanc means white butter, but made with WHITE wine. Not made
with white butter. Rouge refers to the red wine, it is made with red
wine. How can it be beurre blanc (WHITE ) if it is made with red
wine? The answer is rather obvious..it isn't pale like beurre blance.
Use some common sense here....Red means rouge...and if you use red
wine, it is not gonna be pale/white.

The method is what is important. It is a mounted butter sauce, which
is what Ripert's sauce is as well. The method is the same as making
it with white wine, only he uses red wine and vinegar, essentially
producing beurre rouge (RED). The fact that he doesn't call it that,
other than red wine butter sauce is unimportant..the method is what
counts.

That small amount of liquid has to be acidic...for butter to mount
properly, as Julia Child so states. Hence the vinegar and wine. Not
just any old liquid...

The other names for butter sauces such as beurre noir, are not mounted
butter sauces. That one is butter cooked almost to the burning point
(producing a dark color), and then lemon juice is added. No butter is
mounted into the sauce..... Same with beurre noisette.

As I said upwards, use a bit of common sense here.

And maybe, before you entirely dismiss this sauce that Ripert makes,
try it.. It might be quite extraordinary...in terms of a butter
sauce..and it might just be perfect thing with that roast. Don't
knock it before you have tried it.

And if you have made beurre blanc countless times, you should have
recognized the method right away, the the principles behind making it.
They are all in there, with this sauce, which is....a mounted butter
sauce!

Christine

--
http://nightstirrings.blogspot.com
 
"Kent" wrote in message
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That's all good. But Escoffier et al were not the *last* word on French
cooking, just one of the originals. Just because a recipe or a procedure is
not enshrined in one of their tomes does not mean it is not "French." And
things do change over the centuries, like techniques for sauces.

It's all good.

Paul
 
"Paul M. Cook" wrote in message
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In the 1988 edition of the Larousse, edited by Jenifer Lang the red sauce
consisted only of ground shellfish shells, which sounds a bit strange. I
steam Dungeness crab when it's in season. Maybe I'll try that, although I
wonder.
The English translation in the 1988 edition of the Larousse is much clearer.

Kent
 
"Kent" wrote in message
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I disagree. It looks just fine to me. It reminds me of sauces I've had in
restaurants. You cook the sauce down and then strain it and begin mounting
the butter. It's a classic sauce style. The vinegar "bite" would be
greatly subdued after being cooked. And it is not like you smother the
steak with the sauce. A little goes a long way. I'd probably make it in a
half-batch.


I don't like roux based sauces. I much prefer pan style sauces that are
thickened by coking down and butter and/or demi glace.

Paul
 
On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 23:29:23 -0700, "Kent"
wrote:


As soon as you said beef deglazing, that rules out beurre blanc. I
think you don't understand the concept of beurre blanc. No meat
juices are involved at the start....at least not from what I have
read. Yes, you can deglaze a pan with wine and then add butter. But
will you have produced some sort of beurre blanc/rouge? Not to my
knowledge. As it has be said before..the base has to be rather
acidic..and starting out with meat drippings is far from the concept
of a beurre blanc/rouge or a mounted butter sauce.

Christine
--
http://nightstirrings.blogspot.com
 
On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 23:29:23 -0700, "Kent"
wrote:


And what if it looks red? That means there is no such thing? There
is something called common sense here...;)

I tell ya what. Ask a real expert, since you are sure that a French
expert can answer this...no matter if folks have studied French
cooking for years and years. Ask Hubert Keller, or Roland
Passot...or someone else who is an expert in French cuisine. Obviously
none of us know what we are talking about.... ;)

Christine
--
http://nightstirrings.blogspot.com
 
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