Cam Project Final Write-Up

J

Jahman

New member
here's one for ya, something to make you say hmmm...
so here's my question you have a adjustable pushrod, you have the bottom half , you have the top half which is thicker, now if you turn the bottom 2 1/2 rotations then you if you turn the top half 2 1/2 rotations are the thread counts going to be different ?
the reason I ask this question is 1st im from tennessee , lol...
the 2nd is in my opinion the top half is bigger than the lower half, soo wouldnt the thread count be different because of the longer rotation ?
 
I just picked up my 103 kit with 255 cams today. will start tearing down the motor in 2 days. I am wondering about the push rods. If I use my original push rods will they be the exact correct length to preload the lifters. And if they are the correct length shouldn't I be able to measure them and just set the adjustables to the same length to get the proper length preload on the lifter. from posts I have read and instruction sheets it looks like I pre-pump the lifter up. get cylinder on compression stroke which is supposed to get both lifters for that cylinder on lowest part of cam lobe. if I use adjustable rods start extending them until they just start to load up and add 2-1/2 turns for se rods. after lifter bleeds down turn motor over using back wheel ,tranny in gear and find out if valve has clearance. I have seen other write ups, instructions saying to put modelling clay on pistion and check compression of clay and I recall dimension of .080 minimum of clearance in clay compressed area.
I dont see any new top end roller bearings for piston pins in my kit, these piston rods do have needle bearings in them dont they, I got 2 new pins and clips but no bearings. and I don't see any new cam bearings in kit guess I have to buy them . for all the guys that have changed cams or 103 kits, from my push rod write up , does it sound like I have a handle on lifter , rod set up.
 
If you're going big bore w/255's, use your stock push rods. You don't need adjustables. This is an added benefit of not having to worry about adjustables coming loose as well. No roller bearings for piston pins, and get the Torrington B168 inner cam bearings and change out the less than stellar OEM INA inner bearings.
 
Where the threads meet, one rotation is one rotation. Doesn't matter if you spin the skinny part or the fat part.

This made me think about the old question - does a record playing at 33-1/3 rpm turn faster in the middle than it does at the outer edge?
 
talk about fast post responses, I can get the inner bearings from a bearing supply company , sounds like the b168 are the better way to go. I can probably get them for free since I used to be a maintenance foreman for an automotive frame builder and spent hundreds of thousands a year with my bearing supplier, he will just call them samples. from pictures I have looked at the outers look like pressed in brass bearings or are there needle replacements for these.
 
Back
Top