Board breaking specifics and refinement?

BlackBelt2025

New member
I have my 4th degree test in TKD coming up in roughly a year and a half. I got to thinking about it the other day, and I realized how little I knew about the specifics of board breaking.

I am not sure exactly what kind of wood my school uses. It is fairly dry and light, but not like balsa wood or anything. My head instructor usually orders supplies from Century, if that will help identify wood type.

First off, how much force is needed to break a single board? I would like number answers, not just "a lot" or anything.

Second, how much difference does spacing make? I want to do a 5-6 board knife hand for my test. Last test, I did 3 with knife hand with little trouble, and I think I did 4 with a side kick at some time, but I am not sure about the latter. The 3 that I did last test, I duct taped them together with no spacing and didn't have a problem. I am hesitant to try 5-6 without spacing, as it would be like striking a 5" solid block of wood. Does spacing make a difference?

Also, how should I go about training for this? I am even considering switching the 5-6 boards for a brick, but that was just a passing "oh, that would be AWESOME" thought. Back to training, I have been doing knife hands in a sitting stance, rotating my body as far as I can to the left, and then striking with the right hand. I usually hit with the area of my hand just below the bottom pinkie knuckle, approximately. Are there any mistakes I should correct or refinements I should make?

In the Do-Jang, we only have BOBs and padded cylinders, along with the standard shields and pork chops. What should I be striking to perfect technique, and what should I strike for conditioning?

Kam-Sa-Ham-Ni-Da
 
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