Anybody having an issue with S+S 106 bb kit

T

Tavo E

New member
I posted a question yesterday and as I dig deeper into the engine, I have one question for anybody who has installed the S+S 106 BB kit. Have you had any issues with noises?

Thanks for all replies.
Keith
 
I read your post from the other day and was reluctant to comment. You stated on the other post that the oil you were using was Amsoil. I had the same issue with Amsoil but, probably worse. I don't want to start another oil thread so I will temper my comments. Any build from stock will give some more engine noise, especially from the valve train on these new TC's. Most engine builds experience a resonance in the valve train that is deceiving. I have installed the new Woods lifters in my build and so far I am pleased with the results. The choice of oil one runs and how it works in your bike varies. Not everyone gets the same results, I don't know why. Switching oils and the changing out to different lifters really quieted down my engine. Will you get the same results? I don't have that answer. Have you installed an SE comp yet?
 
No, I haven't done the comp yet. I am getting ready to pop the heads tonight just to insure that nothing is wrong in there. This noise, IMO, goes well beyond a noisy valve train. If I give it a good half throttle, it rattles to beat the band. It's to the point that if I'm near other bikes or vehicles, I get looks due to the noise.

Last night, I pulled the cams and lifters and everything looks good. There is no discernable wear on the cam lobes or the races for the bearings. But man, that smell from the oil reminds me of burnt oil from a engine that has some major friction going on some where.

If I find nothing wrong with the heads or cylinders, my next step is to get into the primary and check things out. Then I will check out the comp.

Thanks for the reply.
Keith
 
Sounds very possible that it's your compensator. Do not be surprised if you check it out and it appears to be fine. Mine looked fine and everything was tight and proper, but changing it for the SE comp. made a huge difference in engine noise for me. In my humble opinion, the stock compensator just isn't man enough for the job and even the MoCo has made the SE version standard on all '11 tourers.
 
I have a S&S 106 BB on my 2009 FLHTC i am running SE 260 cams with adjustable push rods and stock lifters. I have chased a lound valvetrain since i did this. I have switched to Mobile 1 v twin oil. I had Amsoil in after break in and it seemed to be less noisy after the switch to Mobile 1. I do plan on changing the lifters next summer. oh by the way the heads im using are polished and ported stock heads. with this set up i am getting 103 ft lbs of TQ with rhinehardt slip ons. i will be interested to see what you find out. but from your description i do not believe mine to be as noisy as yours. i have more of a ticking sound that a slapping or hammering.
good luck.
 
I am still running stock lifetrs and pushrods. I polished my heads but I didn't have them ported. I just had manual crs put in. And when it's hot, I need those puppies!

When I had it tuned after break in, it has a peak 105 ft. lbs. of tq and 85 hp. But I must say, that torque starts at over 90 right off the bat!

Yeah, the sound I have is definitely not a ticking sound. It is more like a noise between a tap and a rap. And like I said, it is driving me nuts!
 
Last night I finally got the heads off after some of the studs decided to comeout with the nuts. Man, what a PITA! Then I pulled the jugs and everything looked good to this point. My greatest fear was that I didn't have one of the c clips for the pistons in right was finally solved with everything intact. Whew! Anyhow, I popped the pistons off and wiggled the rods. What I found was something I really didn't expect to find. The front cylinder rod has, IMO, excessive play side to side. When I say this, if I grab the rod right below the hole for the wrist pin and push it left or right, it moves in excess of 10 thousands. This is a guess at this time for I forgot to take the dial indicator home. It will not move up or down, but it will move using the crank as the pivot point, left or right.

I looked in the shop manual and it said if any disernable movement up or down is not good. But it didn't say anything about this type of movement. Personally, I don't think this is good. What does everybody else think?

Thanks for your relpies so far in this matter.
Keith
 
Side to side shouldn't matter. If it did, it would mean the rod would have to move side to side as well (since the piston wont) - and your rod bearing's would be shot in no time. Since it isn't - I'd say your safe.
Did you check for clearance of the rockers at your lower rocker box and the rocker box cover? Some have issues stock. Also at the push rod's and tubes?
It's possible the manufacturing variance of the cylinder pushed their bores fore/aft and changed the angle enough to make a difference?
 
I would tend to agree, but I wonder why one cylinder has this issue and the other does not. THAT is the issue of concern. If they both moved the same amount, I could see it.
 
I'm thinking the rear rod is actually a stronger design since it's a fork at the crank pin (wider stance) while the front rod fit's inside it, and is not triangulated as well (narrower stance).

http://virtualindian.org/pixarch/kiwirods.jpg
 
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