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everything went into bags and was tagged. before i pulled the cylinders off I played with the cam timing a lot to make sure I knew where everything was before I pulled the cam box apart. I set the rear cylinder at tdc and the dots on the cams lined up. You cant get the dots to line up anywhere on the front cylinder. I pulled the cam box off and you see the inner dots line up when the outer dots are line up. watch you dont loose the spacer for the large outer cam gear , you may need a different size one with a different set of cams, I had to get a thicker one for mine. I had to buy a blind hole bearing puller to change the inner cam bearings to the heavier duty ones. Instead of buying the 400 buck bearing pusher from harley I made my own at work. I think if you search post you can find aftermarket pullers and pushers in here that are chaeper than harley ones. Dont just shove the new bearing in until they stop . you have to measure the depth from the puller plate to the edge of the bearing. I measured the depth of the originals before I pulled them out. HD mechanic recommended this. there is alip way in the back of the hole and if you push until it stops. I would imagine you could bend the lip of the bearing inwards if you push it too far.
 
check the condition of the outer and inner cam chain shoes. MY BIKE had 20,000 km on it and the outer show had small chunks out of it and had to be changed. the inner one looked fine. I had to pull the oli pump off to use my home made bearing puller. I couldnt get a clear view of how lined up the new bearing and the hole was. the pump is actually 2 separate pumps in one. one pumps oil the other pumps the drainage from motor back into the oil pan. i lined all the dots up the same way when it was put back together. I waited until I had the cylinders on so I could get everything in the same positions . when i put the cam box and cams back in i I left the cam box bolts barely snug, I also had copper pipe on the cylinder head bolts to hold the cylinders down while turning the motor over using the back wheel in 6 th gear to check the timing. this alos allowed the oil pump to center better on the crankshaft. you will need a piston ring compressor to get the rings compressed. they dont go in from the top of the cylinder like a car. you need a ring compressor that can be opened up once the cylinders are over the rings. I modified a car one so I could uncoil it .
 
since i didnt want o buy the 400 buck harley bearing pusher I made my pusher plate. I got a piece of clear plastic from work and sandwiched it between the empty cam box plate and the motor. The original cam is actually hollow, this allowed me to insert a drill bit into the cam with the point sticking out. I inserted it into the cam box with the drill out and marked the dead center in the clear piece of plastic. I forgot that I drilled all the out side blot holes in the plate to match the cam box plate and motor block holes first. once I had the center holes located in the plastic plate I transferred them to my metal pusher plate and tapped it with 9/16 fine thread to be used to push the bearings in .
 
as i mentioned earlier you have to check the depth of the bearing when you push it in and make sure you dont squash it. I also made a insert to go into the bearing to keep it dead center in the bearing.
 
I didnt take pics of the re-assembly since I had the before pics as a guide. Follow the details in the shop manual, think Ii paid 80-100 bucks for it. You will need to either drill the heads for compression releases or buy the new heads. I wanted mva heads or 110+ heads but ran out of cash. thats mainly why I didnt he job my self. I had quotes at usa harley shops and candian shops. I live on the border. most us dealers wanted 800-1000 for the job and canadian dealers wanted 1200-1400 for the job. after closing 2 factories in the year before I DIDNT HAVE A alot of free cash handy. I still want to change the heads and add the compensator to the end of the crank shaft that goes to clutch. Once and a while while starting it kicks and wants to grind, I am told this wont be as bad with the new compenstaor that is stock on 2011 models. even with the decompression releases. thats about all i can think of so far. I also bought the screaming eagle race tuner septs. I have done some auto tunes with it pretty easy to get used to . I will get it on a dyno one of these days but and waiting for the heads and mufflers to be changed out first. hopefully this yeasr winter project will get the heads swaped out with automatic decompression realeases, mine are manual, dealer didnt have the drill jig for the auto ones.
 
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