93 Ford E-150 5.0 Ltr 150k miles sputtering,shuts off?

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macacopreto

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Seems to run great until engine warmup, then intermittently just cuts out going along.Speed doesn't seem to change problem but it seems to recatch at higher speeds and keeps going without a total stall. At 25 mph or below usually will stall out completely and not restart. I have replaced the inline fuel filter but this didn't help.When I check ,always have pressure at fuel rail fitting . Fuel pump was replaced at about 80K miles. Does this 10% methanol crap fuel we are forced to buy now affect internal seals,parts,plastics, on fuel pump or injectors?
 
The ignition modules on that series of engines is known to cause lots of intermittent problems. It bolts to the side of the distributor and requires a special driver to remove it, available at most auto parts stores. Other things to check are any thermal switches for open vacuum lines, maybe a fouled ECT sensor. Check for codes and see if anything comes up. No, I doubt an O2 sensor could do it, but a bad MAF or MAP puts you in the ballpark. I still suspect the ignition module.

Also, yes, the E-10 causes problems with fuel economy and accelerated wear. It's a horrible idea driven by short-sighted politicians.

No, the ECM won't shut the engine down on low oil or coolant levels, but check anyway for clues to your dilemma.
 
check the oil and coolant levels. Sounds like the sensors are telling the engine to shut down before you blow the thing up.
 
Well Mac , I think it is your bypass control valve. It`s across from the egr tower on right hand side looking at the engine . It is an easy job. Get some throttle body cleaning spray. Take the valve off and clean it first. Then follow the instructions on the can. Also the two wires going to it has a pretty sharp bend in it. Check to see if the wires are ok going to the valve. When it is your spark control mod., it stays broke and wont give you a second chance.
 
The thick film ignition module on the distributors are notorious for failure. Heat is what kills them over time. You need the tool mentioned to get it off, OR if you have your own tools you need a quarter inch drive ratchet and thin-wall 7/32 socket to remove the module. After you get it off clean the surface on the distributor and apply the new dielectric grease then insert the new module.

Now, simply replacing this module fixes the problem, but often times the pick-up module inside the distributor fails, too. The symptoms of a bad pick-up are the same as the thick film ignition module. Really, BOTH of these parts should be replaced at the same time. Getting to the pick-up requires removing the distributor from the motor and disassembling it shaft and all. If you're not mechanic savvy enough for this task then auto parts stores carry remanufactured distributors with both modules already installed. I've used remans for a lot of 302 and 351W street car projects so don't let anyone get it into your head to avoid using remanufactured distributors.

Make sure your distributor cap is in good shape, but as cheap as they are I'd get a new cap and rotor anyway. Be sure NOT to use the GP Sorensen brand of distributor caps sold at Advance Auto Parts and other store chains. They do not fit well. They remain loose even with the clips holding them down which would cause misfires. If your spark plug wires are old go ahead and install a new set and change your spark plugs. Heat causes the wires to deteriorate over time, too. Factory spark plug gap is .054
 
Well Mac , I think it is your bypass control valve. It`s across from the egr tower on right hand side looking at the engine . It is an easy job. Get some throttle body cleaning spray. Take the valve off and clean it first. Then follow the instructions on the can. Also the two wires going to it has a pretty sharp bend in it. Check to see if the wires are ok going to the valve. When it is your spark control mod., it stays broke and wont give you a second chance.
 
The thick film ignition module on the distributors are notorious for failure. Heat is what kills them over time. You need the tool mentioned to get it off, OR if you have your own tools you need a quarter inch drive ratchet and thin-wall 7/32 socket to remove the module. After you get it off clean the surface on the distributor and apply the new dielectric grease then insert the new module.

Now, simply replacing this module fixes the problem, but often times the pick-up module inside the distributor fails, too. The symptoms of a bad pick-up are the same as the thick film ignition module. Really, BOTH of these parts should be replaced at the same time. Getting to the pick-up requires removing the distributor from the motor and disassembling it shaft and all. If you're not mechanic savvy enough for this task then auto parts stores carry remanufactured distributors with both modules already installed. I've used remans for a lot of 302 and 351W street car projects so don't let anyone get it into your head to avoid using remanufactured distributors.

Make sure your distributor cap is in good shape, but as cheap as they are I'd get a new cap and rotor anyway. Be sure NOT to use the GP Sorensen brand of distributor caps sold at Advance Auto Parts and other store chains. They do not fit well. They remain loose even with the clips holding them down which would cause misfires. If your spark plug wires are old go ahead and install a new set and change your spark plugs. Heat causes the wires to deteriorate over time, too. Factory spark plug gap is .054
 
The thick film ignition module on the distributors are notorious for failure. Heat is what kills them over time. You need the tool mentioned to get it off, OR if you have your own tools you need a quarter inch drive ratchet and thin-wall 7/32 socket to remove the module. After you get it off clean the surface on the distributor and apply the new dielectric grease then insert the new module.

Now, simply replacing this module fixes the problem, but often times the pick-up module inside the distributor fails, too. The symptoms of a bad pick-up are the same as the thick film ignition module. Really, BOTH of these parts should be replaced at the same time. Getting to the pick-up requires removing the distributor from the motor and disassembling it shaft and all. If you're not mechanic savvy enough for this task then auto parts stores carry remanufactured distributors with both modules already installed. I've used remans for a lot of 302 and 351W street car projects so don't let anyone get it into your head to avoid using remanufactured distributors.

Make sure your distributor cap is in good shape, but as cheap as they are I'd get a new cap and rotor anyway. Be sure NOT to use the GP Sorensen brand of distributor caps sold at Advance Auto Parts and other store chains. They do not fit well. They remain loose even with the clips holding them down which would cause misfires. If your spark plug wires are old go ahead and install a new set and change your spark plugs. Heat causes the wires to deteriorate over time, too. Factory spark plug gap is .054
 
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