2006 C50 Starter Problem

L

likesfemalefeet

New member
I have a 2006 C50 with about 1k miles. Last week after riding a short distance and parking for 2 hours the starter would not work. Fortunitly I was on a hill and coast started to get home. The next day the bike started right up. Four days later I rode 20 miles stopped for a few hours, started rode 3 miles parked 10 minutes, would not start. Push start again (friend almost had a heart attack) drove 3 miles started worked fine. Took to mechanic could not find any problem, they could not replicate. Cleaned and lubed the electric block in headlight.

Any suggestions for the mechanic.
 
Are you sure you are not trying to start the bike, in gear, with the kickstand down?

Read your manual a few times.

Because you have not filled in all the info, we do not know if you are new to riding.

:welcomes:
 
Harry sorry to hear about your problem...While mine has not been as dramatic as not starting, I too have noticed my 06 C50T doesn't start as well after it has warmed up...If I ride up to the store, run in for a few things and come right out it starts but seems to require a longer press on the start button than when cold...And feels like a heart beat away from not actually starting...Not like when I first set out to ride, it starts immediately and with gusto...Plan to talk with the dealer when I take in for its next scheduled maintenance...
 
I read elsewhere that there is a "push-pin" behind the clutch lever. If it sticks, you get a no-start condition. Also, make sure that the pin and wires for the kick stand are properly connected and the pin moves easily.

eta moya dva rubles
 
Thanks for the input, foambuilder's is the most useful. Of course I had the kickstand up, was in neutral with the clutch pulled.

Problem is electrical not mechanical starts EZ when hot or cold. I will ask mechanic to check clutch.
 
My 07 m50 with 2156 miles on it wont start half the time because of a dead battery, the shop say's nothing wrong with it. They have had it twice, the first time all they did is charge the battery. The second they had it for a week and said I must be locking the steering leaving the break light on. I don't lock my steering. Then they said I wasn't driving far enough. I guess 80 miles wasn't far enough for the first time it happened. That dealership won't get my $$$$ again, I've already talked to another dealer. This all started after my first service at 1200 miles (couldn't get a apt.) 4 days before they had that done. $260 for that and a headache.
 
Check and see if the kickstand switch is going in enough I had the problem of it dying while I was riding. I put a piece of fuzzy Velcro on the lever and it stopped the problem.
 
IIRC there was a discussion on here somewhere about loose battery POSTS. Not the cable bolt but another bolt that actually holds the post/connector to the body of the battery. I think it was some model of 'zuki but not sure.

Edit: Here it is! http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/forum/boulevard/16516-s50-problem-dead-bike.html

Seems like most "mechanics" any more are really just grease monkeys who don't actually know how anything works. :madd:

Anyhow, would be worth a few minutes to check the main battery cables at both ends to be sure they are tight and not corroded, etc.

Of course, it could be the battery itself. It probably has been close to a year since the bike was actually put together. If the battery was allowed to go dead (highly likely) it could have sulphated. The early signs of sulphation are intermittant failure, followed by not holding a charge at all.
 
Do you get the humming sound when you flip on the red start switch? I had a problem after I had my first service and they determined that when they put the tank back on it was pinching a vacuum line and thus would not stay running while cold unless I revved it.
 
every thing is fine with the new batt. had to call the owner of the dealership to get the problem fixed though. Another dealer said if the bat wasn't charged properly the first time it would lead to a short life. I tested it at advanced auto on the computer, the readout stated it that it would not take a proper charge. the service rep at the dealer said I didn't know what I was talking about. When they did the first service I asked for tolarances the valves were out. I got "I don't Know we just adjusted them". So much for precision maintenance. Time to get a book and learn for myself:huh:
 
Absolutely true. Not being properly changed AND sitting on the show room floor for ~ a year or so is a death sentence for a battery.

FWIW, this is more common with dealers who do not allow test rides. They have no incentive for keeping the batteries charged up.......especially when they can get away with BSing the new owner when the brand new bike fails to start.
 
At the dealership Iwas working at the most common battery problem we had was the battery not being properly activated to begin with. When the dealerships get the batteries with the new bikes they are not yet filed with acid. As for the sealed type batteries that most new bikes come with there is a pre-measured acid pack that comes with it. once the batteries are filled they actually more or less charge themselves. The covers are supposed to be left off for 20-30 minutes and the battery left to sit for about an hour and it will by this point be 80%-90% charged. If the mechanic places the covers on and put it on a charger right away this can warp the plates that actually hold the charge inside the battery thereby greatly reducing the reliability and life of a battery.
 
No question about that.
The rest of what you said, however.............

If a battery comes with an acid pack, it is not SEALED.
SEALED batteries are sealed at the factory.

Batteries do not "charge themselves".

That last 10-20% of the charge is important.
After following the rest of the instructions, a new battery should always be connected to a low capacity charger for as long as it takes to get up to 100%.

Along with a couple of quick voltmeter tests, this is the best way to weed out the few that come in the door defective.
 
I never said that it fully charged itself, and they are actually sealed batteries. Due to EPA regulations they cannot be shipped already activated. Which is why the dealership has to activate it and seal it. There are some sportbike batteries (also sealed type batteries) With different venting that the manufacturers are able to seld with the acid already in because the venting is set up differently so that when they are installed they can lay down.
 
Back
Top