'07 Fork Oil Change

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damienbfree

New member
I know for a fact that for the older switches 93-05 the manual says to release in acc position. I have not read the removal proceedure in a decade or so, so Iam not sure what the current manual says, but why would you want the forks locked when your working on the front end? I guess being left handed with XL hands turning it to acc gives me great access and like I said turn the switch back to the off position before lifting it out and theres no need for a tool to turn it, the switch works perfectly.
 
I agree with both I-click and Hog-Doc ...stiffer suspension doesn't alway mean better ride or rebound could be compromised but in this case i didn't see any adverse effects and i did try hard...NC, TN, WV twisty mountain roads are a great proving gound for this as y'all know. The rebound on the bike as been actually better...not sure why MOCO makes the front so soft??? As for the ACC switch, i followed I-Click's method but i re-installed the switch while i had everything off...NO problems there...i now have 44k miles and will change this again...Not too worried about the innerds yet...plus i will trade my bike soon anyway. Either way, you guys bring out good points and stuff to think about...Hog-Doc, it seems you are doing it by the book and i understand that perfectly but that is not always necesary is it? some times we can use parts until they are at breaking point???? I hate to replace something when it has some life left in them...I carry brake pads with me just in case mine start scrubbing..I inspect them but used them to the max. Same with F%*#d changes...Thanks to all who contribute...
 
Beats the hell outa me. I just re-checked my '07 service manual and here's the procedure:

a. Insert the ignition switch key and turn to the UNLOCK position. Leave the key installed in the ignition switch knob.

b. Turn the front forks to the left fork stop and rotate the knob to FORK LOCK.

c. Depressing the release button at bottom (left side) with a small screwdriver, push key down and turn 60
degrees in a counterclockwise direction.

d. Lift and remove knob. Be aware that spring will drop out of bore at underside of knob when removed.

That will lock the forks, of course, and makes moving the switch panel out of the way impossible. I'm sure there's some legal and/or safety reason for this change, although what that might be escapes me. Maybe if you don't lock the forks someone might steal the bike, then you'll sue HD for not telling you to secure the bike.
 
I don't know why the stock fork configuration is like this and I've had the same good experience with the SEH fluid. We have lots of substandard roads here and my rides often involve trying to keep up with some friends who ride BMW's and the like, so the bike gets its fill of twisties with irregularities thrown in. This is not to mention trips to the Smokies, AR, and the TX Hill Country where we push the lean angles quite often. I've never had a tense moment since making the change and the front-end actually feels better overall, as you've observed. HD's description of the SEH is "A heavier oil that provides extra damping in performance applications." If it is a performance upgrade I wouldn't think there would be safety issues in normal riding, and if there was even a chance of a safety issue I think HD would make it very clear in the description. The lawyers would insist, I'm sure.

OTOH the SE Extra Heavy fluid says "Designed and blended for the severe conditions on the race track. Not intended for street use." I can see how this stuff might cause the problems Hogdoc pointed out.



Well, just be sure you replace the spacers and nut under the knob before turning it! If you don't the tumblers will get out of whack. Ask me how I know this.
 
thanks!.... another helpful how to article.

I can only imagine your private message basket from your post, lol. I did the 180 tire install a few years ago and still answer questions weekly from all over the world - on how to, what size, etc. It's fun though......and a lot of laughs too.
 
Addendum: In a more recent thread a good idea was mentioned about how to remove stubborn Phillips drain screws. Note the hand vise to keep pressure on the ratchet. This may eliminate the need to use vise grips and destroy the screw head.

I still like the idea of replacing these with something else, like a hex-head or button-head Allen bolt. If you use either of these remember that the bolt is shallow and you're screwing into aluminum, so don't overtighten or you'll strip it! IIRC there isn't a torque spec for this screw, but if there was one it wouldn't be very high. Using something other than the stock Phillips screw I would just snug it up with very little tightening force. I used a hex-bolt on my old RK and it worked fine this way.
 
When i changed my fork oil on my night train a few years ago i used a impact driver from sears with a #3 phillips screw socket bit on it. One whack with a hammer on the driver screw loosens.
 
Well after installing the Progressive Drop-in lowering kit and chrome fork sliders, along with the SE "Heavy" fork oil, I decided to try some lighter 10W fork oil. After draining both forks I expected to see about 21.5 oz of oil. All I ended up with was 20 oz. And there where no signs of any leaks. After replacing the fork sliders I know they were empty. And I added 10.8 oz. This being said, are we leaving .8 oz of oil in the forks after draining them?
 
That is about the amount of oil that is coating the springs, walls and valving inside. Unless you take it completely apart and wash everything in solvant it wont all come out.
 
Other than wanting a stiffer front end, I can't see any reason to change the fork oil until the 50,000 mile service that is indicated in the owners manual. Harley dealers just want your money more often and sooner, that's why they tell you 20,000 miles. At 50,000 miles, you will have to do a full service on the forks, not just a oil change. Since these forks do not have the older cartridge in the left fork, they do not require a 20,000 mile service. I plan on doing mine early because I feel as most do, that the front suspension is too soft.
 
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