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''DUBBIN'' is the best thing i find for waterproofing/conditioning of leather...Ive just done mine 5 Min's ago as it happens,small world eh?

contact me via my avatar...ive a link to a free manual download...it should help..

have a look here http://www.suzukicycles.org/1980-1989/1983a.shtml see if you can match up the model,as ive never heard of it.

normally a cracked lens will fail the MOT...that is if they see it.

shaun,contact me via my avatar,ill give you a link to download the full manual free....best read it eh?

i dont think they will fit[but not100% mind you]...cant your raptor chassis/frame be straitend/fixed?

white....no blue....wait..ner cant deside either...buy a blue one and a spare set of white plastics as there mega cheep....that way you can mix n match your own..

only one that's worth anyting is the THUMP STAR...forget the plugs and turbo...get a single shot nitrous oxide kit of ebay...£20 delivered.

well normally a clicking solinoid means a duff battery...try a jump from a car battery...if still nothing,stick it in second gear and rock it,just to make sure the engine isnt locked up.if the engine spins the the starter may need looking at[or replaced].you could always bypass the relay[to see...

give it a larger boared carb...get some porting done..kniff-edge and open up the reedblock,pollish when finnished...

i know the bits,they often break...i advise contacting the dealers to see IF you can still get them...theres bound to be a way of sealing them up,possibly with a tight fitting rubber/plastic pipe/tube.

whats the model code/number [yzf/wr etc] and the year/engine size...ill have a look.[but dont hold your breath as im not sure they did one]

dont we all friend....i got Access to one that covers 89-99..contact my via my avatar and ill send you the link...and all i ask is the points...

not well versed on them lumps but looking at some pics the timming chain adjuster is on the l/h side of the barrel/engine..it wont need removed to do...contact me via my avatar and ill send you a link for a free manual download...

all right there brummy....3 years of keeping the bike onder 6000 rpms will have choked it up a little,be prepaired for some crap being shot out the pipes...in second rev it till you hit the limiter,do the same in third.... Max Power 77 hp 56.1 kW @ 10500 rpm Max Torque 54 Nm @ 9500 rpm it...

it will give around an extra 10 mph...he makes nice pipes him.

try them both...me,i like the R1....

link bellow...bit steep though...serch ebay and ask sellers what they have got

easy way is to sadjust up the rear shocker..all have some sort af adjustment on the spring..it wont really raise it much BUT it will stiffen it and it wont go down as far when you sit on it..as for the fronts you can space the fore tube springs out with tight fitting tubing on the inside...a...

not sure on batt type but the stator coils in the l/h engine case charges the batt via the reg/rec unit...the stators are inside a flywheel 'magnet] that spins and creates the charge.pretty much the same as an alternator on a car but its fitted internally....the batt not holding charge is...